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  #1  
Old 08-01-2006, 06:01 AM
seion seion is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: South Burlington, VT
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Need to take rear subframe out

OK, so I need to take the fuel tank out and it's recommended that the rear subframe has to be taken out first. Any advice on doing this besides taking the 4 bolts that hold it in place out? This is the first time doing this...
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  #2  
Old 08-01-2006, 05:04 PM
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Speedklix Speedklix is offline
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if you have motorcycle jack and some 2x4s with the ability to cut them that'll help... or even just some blocks to rest it on to line it up. What a headache?! I can't remember 100% everything that was involved, sorry.

Tom did an AWD swap on the Stage3 and I think he posted some pics that should help you get some bearings on it.

-EDIT-
here is a pic from toms locker: subframe

You will see that the trailing link to nuckle bolt was also removed on eachside. I think that is the best way of freeing the frame from the suspension. If you have the tools, it is 100 times easier to simply cut the nut off the bolt and install a new bolt and nut on eash side when you reinstall, instead of trying to break them free as they are self locking. Be sure you unbolt those handbrake and ABS lines as well.
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ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
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Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165

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Last edited by Speedklix; 08-01-2006 at 05:39 PM.
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  #3  
Old 08-01-2006, 06:25 PM
seion seion is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: South Burlington, VT
Posts: 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedklix
if you have motorcycle jack and some 2x4s with the ability to cut them that'll help... or even just some blocks to rest it on to line it up. What a headache?! I can't remember 100% everything that was involved, sorry.

Tom did an AWD swap on the Stage3 and I think he posted some pics that should help you get some bearings on it.

-EDIT-
here is a pic from toms locker: subframe

You will see that the trailing link to nuckle bolt was also removed on eachside. I think that is the best way of freeing the frame from the suspension. If you have the tools, it is 100 times easier to simply cut the nut off the bolt and install a new bolt and nut on eash side when you reinstall, instead of trying to break them free as they are self locking. Be sure you unbolt those handbrake and ABS lines as well.

Thanks dude, this helps a lot. It seems I will need to cut those bolts, because they are HARD to get them loose. This is going to be one @#$%*$ mission I wished I didn't have to go through.
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  #4  
Old 08-01-2006, 06:54 PM
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benebob benebob is offline
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Yeah you're not getting that tank out w/o removing the subframe unless you wanna start cutting. Just curious though. Why are you removing the tank? They don't rot! I'd love though if you can get me measurements of the tank location when you have it out. We'll need to go with a fuel cell next year for hill climbing and would prefer to put it in the old tank location. We tried to remove the tank from a wrecked SVX but couldn't get the subframe off and the tank just won't come w/o it being at least loose.
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  #5  
Old 08-01-2006, 07:44 PM
seion seion is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benebob
Yeah you're not getting that tank out w/o removing the subframe unless you wanna start cutting. Just curious though. Why are you removing the tank? They don't rot! I'd love though if you can get me measurements of the tank location when you have it out. We'll need to go with a fuel cell next year for hill climbing and would prefer to put it in the old tank location. We tried to remove the tank from a wrecked SVX but couldn't get the subframe off and the tank just won't come w/o it being at least loose.
Fuel lines that run down the fuel tank are rusted and leaking
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Cars I've worked on:
'05 Subaru Impreza STi, '02 Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon, '01 Toyota Celica GT, '98 Subaru Legacy GT 2.5 Sedan, '96 Isuzu Rodeo, '95 Jeep Cherokee 2WD, '94 Plymouth Sundance, '94 Subaru SVX LSi, '93 Subaru Impreza, '92 Subaru SVX LS-L, 2003 Subaru Baja.
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  #6  
Old 08-02-2006, 08:48 PM
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TomsSVX TomsSVX is offline
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a 4ft .5" drive breaker bar is essencial in removing the rear subframe to get the trailering link arm off properly. Just be sure to get a rear wheel alignment after you are done

Tom
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  #7  
Old 08-04-2006, 10:30 AM
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Speedklix Speedklix is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX
a 4ft .5" drive breaker bar is essencial in removing the rear subframe to get the trailering link arm off properly. Just be sure to get a rear wheel alignment after you are done

Tom
15 seconds cutting 3/4 of nut
2 seconds of impact wrench
$7 for new bolt and nut.

Less effort and more time drinking... priceless.
Thats just my method, I prefer not having to do an alignment and having the new bolts in anyway.
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-Mike
ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic
Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165

Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker

Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ?

Last edited by Speedklix; 08-04-2006 at 11:08 AM.
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