infamous 5MT low idle stall

[want-a-fast-svx]

anyone have any luck with the stalling issue at hand?

[Beav]

Sounds as though the IAC isn't programmed to recover the idle fast enough for a manual tranny. You might adapt a dashpot from a '70s carbureted car to the throttle, whether at the linkage or the pedal, in order to slow the throttle closure a tad. Typically a dashpot will add a half-second or so to the closure time. Many different types/brackets/etc. available. Browse an old junkyard or check out NAPA, Autozone online, etc. Try this for an idea:

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...grpid=75294599

It's just a diaphragm that depletes through a small hole, pretty basic.

[mbtoloczko]

Originally Posted by Beav

Sounds as though the IAC isn't programmed to recover the idle fast enough for a manual tranny. You might adapt a dashpot from a '70s carbureted car to the throttle, whether at the linkage or the pedal, in order to slow the throttle closure a tad. Typically a dashpot will add a half-second or so to the closure time. Many different types/brackets/etc. available. Browse an old junkyard or check out NAPA, Autozone online, etc. Try this for an idea:

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...grpid=75294599

It's just a diaphragm that depletes through a small hole, pretty basic.

That's the best idea I've heard yet. Thank you.

[svxsubaru1]

Originally Posted by svxsubaru1

I never had had the probelm, and iam using the NSS to let it run right now. My car does idle at around 500 rpms tho, right on very bottom bar on the tach.

Now my car does have the stalling issue, it went for about 1/2 a year with out it. hopefully its tune up/Vacume hose thing.

[Speedklix]

Originally Posted by mohrds

I think it is a tune up issue. {Puts on Flame suit}

I had that issue on my 92 (auto tranny) all the time until I swapped out the engine. I would put it in neutral and it would occasionally die.

After I swapped out the engine, it never did that again.

Looking at my old engine, some of the vacuum lines at the rear were showing their age and the throttle body and intake runner were filthy even though I cleaned it on a somewhat regular basis.

Just a shot in the dark, but with all the messing around with the physical install, could some of the vacuum lines have gotten flexed enough where the age fatigue produced a tiny crack? That would explain why it mostly happens to cars after a 5 speed swap.

Doug

Yahtzee!!!
My Auto 92 did this exactly. It only did it after I had not driven it for several weeks, and only in the cold. I know it has a vacumm leak somewhere but never hunted it down, I always blamed it on this. My leak has to be to the rear somewhere, which would be the same place a 5mt swap would cause a problem.

[blacknite]

I Just Started Having The Same Issue, A Few Days Back I Opend The Hood And Look Aroud The Altertanor And Ps. And Right Underneath The Intake A Little Hose From The, I Guess Iris System Was Just Laying On Top Of The Block So I Put It Where It Belongs And After That I Started Having The Stall Problem....

[mbtoloczko]

Originally Posted by Speedklix

Yahtzee!!!
My Auto 92 did this exactly. It only did it after I had not driven it for several weeks, and only in the cold. I know it has a vacumm leak somewhere but never hunted it down, I always blamed it on this. My leak has to be to the rear somewhere, which would be the same place a 5mt swap would cause a problem.

For a while, I was convinced that it was an air leak issue, but more recently, I think its not. The only time the engine stalls is when reving down when coming up to a stop sign/signal. Nine times out of ten, with the enging at say 2500 rpm, when I let off the gas and push in the clutch coming up to a stop, the rpms drop quickly but the IAC kicks in, and the rpms settle momentarily at about 1200 rpm before slowly settling down to about 650 rpm. Once in a while though, when I let off the gas and push in the clutch, the IAC never kicks in, and the rpms just go straight to zero.

[Earthworm]

Then why did it seem to only be a problem with people using WRX trannies?

[huck369]

Could it be a problem only with people running lightened flywheels, as they don't carry enough rotating mass to keep the EG33 from stalling?

Originally Posted by mbtoloczko

For a while, I was convinced that it was an air leak issue, but more recently, I think its not. The only time the engine stalls is when reving down when coming up to a stop sign/signal. Nine times out of ten, with the enging at say 2500 rpm, when I let off the gas and push in the clutch coming up to a stop, the rpms drop quickly but the IAC kicks in, and the rpms settle momentarily at about 1200 rpm before slowly settling down to about 650 rpm. Once in a while though, when I let off the gas and push in the clutch, the IAC never kicks in, and the rpms just go straight to zero.

Mychailo, last night I was thinking about our previous conversations about this. I wonder if there is a way to trick the ECU into thinking it is in "cold start" mode all the time? This usually causes the engine to idle at about 1000 - 1200 RPM, and while this may *bother* some people, I certainly think it would be an advancement if the car never stalled.

[mbtoloczko]

Originally Posted by deruvian

Mychailo, last night I was thinking about our previous conversations about this. I wonder if there is a way to trick the ECU into thinking it is in "cold start" mode all the time? This usually causes the engine to idle at about 1000 - 1200 RPM, and while this may *bother* some people, I certainly think it would be an advancement if the car never stalled.

The engine runs only in open-loop when the ecu is in cold-start mode. Open-loop would likely make gas mileage even worse. It might also be that the ecu richens the a/f ratio in cold start mode. Might be interesting to try, but I think I'm going to go with Beav's suggestion of adding a dashpot to slow the return of the throttle to idle position.

[blacknite]

I'm Using The 1996 The Turbo Legacy Flywheel And Clutch, The Diameter Is Bigger Than Wrx. And Have The Same Problem....

[robricc]

Just to chime in, I have a 92 with 2002 WRX 5MT and have this exact problem lately. It didn't happen for a couple months, but once it got colder it started.

[rmjjensen]

reviving an old thread - the last post seems to be from March of 2005.

I'm starting my conversion and who knows if I'll wind up with this problem. I'll be using an '04 WRX tranny with a stock WRX flywheel.

Everyone that has done this swap has tricked the ECU into thinking it is in N or P correct? Why not leave it to think the transmission is in the D position? I know that there is high idle involved in that trick but I'd think it would be easier to lower the idle output from the ECU rather than raise it.

[AvPPoW]

I dont have this problem, but it's not cold here yet. We'll see