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  #46  
Old 10-12-2006, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au
I don't think I am confused, in what I have said. Though I don't understand what you are getting at. Can you explain what you mean by

" on what basis are you claiming that the modulaed secondary circuit current. is in some strange way linear with throttle position, or in fact is in any way related to total solenoid operating current ? "

Harvey.
You have quoted figures covering current based on simple throttle positions. You have quoted figures on the basis of simple ohms law when there is a parallel circuit, as well as two modulated signals involving a time constant. Your lack of understanding in respect of my question says it all.
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  #47  
Old 10-12-2006, 01:02 AM
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Well, All I know is that it works the way I have it now, And doesn't work when supposedly hooked up as per the directions. When I hook it up per the directions I have 670 OHMs with NO vacuum and I have an infinite Reading(open circuit) WITH vacuum and no 3rd gear engine braking.
The way I currently have it hooked up Gives me 0 OHMs WITH vacuum and an infinite reading(open circuit) WITHOUT vacuum which works for me right now because at least I have 3rd gear engine braking.

I can find absolutely NO WAY of hooking up this kit and getting what I should get which is 0 OHMs WITH vacuum and 670 OHMs WITHOUT vacuum, Which is my understanding of how it should work.

NOTE: This testing is being done with the shift kit out of the car and unhooked.
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  #48  
Old 10-12-2006, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budfreak
Well, All I know is that it works the way I have it now, And doesn't work when supposedly hooked up as per the directions. When I hook it up per the directions I have 670 OHMs with NO vacuum and I have an infinite Reading(open circuit) WITH vacuum and no 3rd gear engine braking.
The way I currently have it hooked up Gives me 0 OHMs WITH vacuum and an infinite reading(open circuit) WITHOUT vacuum which works for me right now because at least I have 3rd gear engine braking.

I can find absolutely NO WAY of hooking up this kit and getting what I should get which is 0 OHMs WITH vacuum and 670 OHMs WITHOUT vacuum, Which is my understanding of how it should work.

NOTE: This testing is being done with the shift kit out of the car and unhooked.
From your previous explanations the switch is wired up as per my amended diagram right? However it sounds as if it should be wired up as per the original diagram right? (with the resistor between the two top contacts).
That is the only way to get what you describe above:
"I can find absolutely NO WAY of hooking up this kit and getting what I should get which is 0 OHMs WITH vacuum and 670 OHMs WITHOUT vacuum, Which is my understanding of how it should work."
In this case the wiring of the original diagram is correct - if this is how the switch is supposed to operate of course. IF this is the case then that switch has got the resistor in the wrong place.

Matt
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  #49  
Old 10-12-2006, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budfreak
Well, All I know is that it works the way I have it now, And doesn't work when supposedly hooked up as per the directions. When I hook it up per the directions I have 670 OHMs with NO vacuum and I have an infinite Reading(open circuit) WITH vacuum and no 3rd gear engine braking.
The way I currently have it hooked up Gives me 0 OHMs WITH vacuum and an infinite reading(open circuit) WITHOUT vacuum which works for me right now because at least I have 3rd gear engine braking.

I can find absolutely NO WAY of hooking up this kit and getting what I should get which is 0 OHMs WITH vacuum and 670 OHMs WITHOUT vacuum, Which is my understanding of how it should work.
By the way, you originally said a different thing to that which you have above in bold, which was:

"Originally Posted by Budfreak
OK, Here's the thing. My shift kit has 2 contacts and another one that appears to be broke off at the base. When I test between the 2 contacts that are there(the ones with the resistor soldered between them) I get 670 OHMS with the switch closed(vacuum) and 1 OHM with it open(no vacuum)."

So which measurement is which now - tell you what, you've got me confused now too.

Matt
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Last edited by floatingkiwi; 10-12-2006 at 12:14 PM.
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  #50  
Old 10-12-2006, 10:20 AM
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I don't think you would want 0 ohms in that circuit at any time. You would have little to no line pressure and the tranny would be slipping like crazy.
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  #51  
Old 10-12-2006, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor
You have quoted figures covering current based on simple throttle positions. You have quoted figures on the basis of simple ohms law when there is a parallel circuit, as well as two modulated signals involving a time constant. Your lack of understanding in respect of my question says it all.
Yes I have related the current flow that is operating in that circuit. The other feed operates independent, of the throttle pressure circuit.

I'll write some on it when I get a chance.

Harvey.
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  #52  
Old 10-12-2006, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthworm
I don't think you would want 0 ohms in that circuit at any time. You would have little to no line pressure and the tranny would be slipping like crazy.
Not quite the case Dave. No voltage to the A solenoid, leaves full line pressure. The A solenoid is a open drain, activating it reduces the line pressure.

Harvey.
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  #53  
Old 10-12-2006, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floatingkiwi
By the way, you originally said a different thing to that which you have above in bold, which was:

"Originally Posted by Budfreak
OK, Here's the thing. My shift kit has 2 contacts and another one that appears to be broke off at the base. When I test between the 2 contacts that are there(the ones with the resistor soldered between them) I get 670 OHMS with the switch closed(vacuum) and .1 OHM(Open circuit) with it open(no vacuum)."

So which measurement is which now - tell you what, you've got me confused now too.

Matt
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  #54  
Old 10-12-2006, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floatingkiwi
From your previous explanations the switch is wired up as per my amended diagram right? However it sounds as if it should be wired up as per the original diagram right? (with the resistor between the two top contacts).
That is the only way to get what you describe above:
"I can find absolutely NO WAY of hooking up this kit and getting what I should get which is 0 OHMs WITH vacuum and 670 OHMs WITHOUT vacuum, Which is my understanding of how it should work."
In this case the wiring of the original diagram is correct - if this is how the switch is supposed to operate of course. IF this is the case then that switch has got the resistor in the wrong place.

Matt
I think you may be right about the resistor being in the wrong place. The shift kit would seem to not being working again as I again have no 3rd gear engine braking and it's shifting hard into second. I'll check the connections on it tomorrow, But I'm thinking it's being caused by the TCU going into a fault mode when I get on the throttle and activate the shift kit due to it going to an open circuit when the switch has no vacuum. I think the resistor needs to be between the broken terminal and the (COM) terminal. I'll play around with it tomorrow and if I can't get it to do what I need it to, I guess I'll try sending it to smallcar and have them fix me up. Thanks for all the help guys.

Last edited by Budfreak; 10-12-2006 at 06:57 PM.
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  #55  
Old 10-13-2006, 07:01 AM
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Cool avatar Jason. Hey can you take a pic when you solve the configuration issue please.

Thanks much
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  #56  
Old 10-13-2006, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msvx95
Cool avatar Jason. Hey can you take a pic when you solve the configuration issue please.

Thanks much
Thanks Matt, I thought it was funny as hell when I saw it. I'll either try to get some pics of it or I'll PM you and tell you in detail how to do it.
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  #57  
Old 10-13-2006, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au
Not quite the case Dave. No voltage to the A solenoid, leaves full line pressure. The A solenoid is a open drain, activating it reduces the line pressure.

Harvey.
That's what I said...0 OHMS...volts would be full.
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  #58  
Old 10-13-2006, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthworm
That's what I said...0 OHMS...volts would be full.
That 0 OHM reading came from just the shift kit without the resistor hooked to it. When the shift kit has 0 OHMs, It simply means it's making a direct connection between the A solenoid and the stock resistor when all is hooked up correctly.
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  #59  
Old 10-15-2006, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au
Yes I have related the current flow that is operating in that circuit. The other feed operates independent, of the throttle pressure circuit.

I'll write some on it when I get a chance.

Harvey.
I and others, will be waiting with great interest, an exactly worded, technically correct, explanation of your original statement and figures. Mr. Ohm will be very interested and could turn in his grave. As for "the throttle pressure circuit", whatever that may be, being involved in the calculations you have posted, A waiting game of chance it most surely is.
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  #60  
Old 10-17-2006, 06:57 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au
Glad you got that sorted out.

As far as the flashing light goes. I think this is caused by the resistor that they have used to increase the dropping resistance. The resistance is too high when the switch opens.

The normal setup has about 12 Ohms for the dropping resistor, 3 Ohm for the A solenoid. This 15 Ohm flows about 933 Mil amps(Applied voltage about 12V).As the signal is a Duty Cycle, the current flow is applied as a percentage of time. Hence a percentage of the DC current flow. At closed throttle it is 95% or 827 Mil amps. When the throttle is fully open it is 5% or 43 Mil amps.

It is this current flow that reduces the ATF line pressure, when the engine load is low, bringing it back up when the the throttle is open and the load is increased. So the line pressure is reduced when not needed, to save power

When the kit is fitted, and it (is adjusted to ) opens at about 50% throttle, the combined DC resistance with the 680 Ohm resistor, is about 700 Ohms flowing 20 Mil amps. When the switch opens at about half throttle the current flow drops to 50% of that,DC resistance or 10 Mil amps, if the pedal is on the floor, it drops to 20 Micro amps.

The TCU is expecting to see about 43 Mil amps, but sees 20 micros instead, decides something is wrong so it posts the code. The fix would be to reduce the additional 680 Ohm resistor to a, 47 Ohms 1/2 watt.

This would see 25 Mil amps at half throttle, and 2.5 Mil amps at full throttle, which should keep the TCU happy.
As the TCU will post a code, for abnormal current flow or abnormal inductance. As the reduced current flow caused by the high resistance, can cause both of these faults, I think a reduction in the added resistance would allow the kit to work without the flashing light problem.

Harvey.
I didn't mean to write more on this thread. I was going to write more on the line pressure itself, but this is an expanded version of this post. Is this what you want?

Harvey.
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