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#1
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my new svx has corrosion
just got it in last night but being a northern car it has been taged by road salt and snow, the exhaust and suspension pieces are all rusted from it, =<
any one have this and suggestions on fixing it,, maybe sand blasting it? or should just let it be as is, ? my last svx with 100k on it didnt have any.
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2008 evo x with sss package 430 hp 380 torque stock turbo with basic bolt ons 12.56 @ 109 fully weighted 3,500 lbs |
#2
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Sand blasting the suspension parts and exhaust gonna take a lot of time and $$$. is there any body rust? this is what's most important in my opinion...
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Danny 1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon) 1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration 2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection. |
#3
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Not sure if its worth trying to remove the rust, but it would be a good idea to try to remove any remaining salt with a thorough rinsing of the underside of the car. Check the body for rust, especially where the lower panels overlap the upper panels.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#4
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im going to take a closer look whene i get home i didnt get the car till 11 last night,, looks like the under coating it all in good shape, but the brakes, rear diff and such was rusted,
i will take some snap shots tonight of it for you guys,
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2008 evo x with sss package 430 hp 380 torque stock turbo with basic bolt ons 12.56 @ 109 fully weighted 3,500 lbs |
#5
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Having lost an old Suby to New England road salt, I'd add that you need to check the rocker panels and rear jack points. Any rust perforation there would be bad news.
dcb |
#6
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if you have your own shop quality sandblaster, a room to do it and some fairly rough media Id say go ahead and do it yourself. of course after you get the rust of youll need to rust treat and rubber coat it to prevent any further decay.
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R.I.P Cool Signature. You're gone but not forgotten. I mean, sure, I kindof don't remember some of the finer details..but I remember you were funny, and at one point you said spaghetti in Dutch....but definantly not forgotten |
#7
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eric i have a huge garage and a air compresor that puts body shops to shame LOL
i was hoping for it being such low milage it would have this, =< i also found out it was a smoker!!! ashes in the ash tray =<
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2008 evo x with sss package 430 hp 380 torque stock turbo with basic bolt ons 12.56 @ 109 fully weighted 3,500 lbs |
#8
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I recommend not to sandblast anything while it is still mounted in place. You will create too many spots where it will be impossible to protect it against new rust afterwards.
A far better method would be to blast it with dry ice. This new method removes all dirt, salt, oil and loose parts and leaves paint, plastic and rubber parts clean like brand new. It does only remove loose rust particles. You can do this whithout taking anything apart. The advantage is that you do not create any new vulnerabilities for rust and you can decide what really needs to be done afterwards. If there is the need to sandblast and repaint some supension parts etc. you should definitely take them out first. The idea to take off the rocker panels is a very good one. |
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