Smallcar shift kit question

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Budfreak

------- It would seem the 670 OHM resistor is adequate to keep the computer from going into fault mode for as long as it returns to normal(stock resistance) when you let off the throttle, But if at anytime it goes to an open circuit(or if the resistance remains too high) the computer will go to fault mode(stops using the resistance in the circuit) and causes the transmission to act as if no resistor is present at all(like it's unplugged).

The mystery is that as far as I am aware, others who have run with the resistor simply unplugged, have not reported a similar problem.

I do not know for certain how you are defining "Fault Mode". You will appreciate that fault indication will occur if the resistor circuit is broken, without there being any integral fault, in which case you could mean a fault indication mode. However the lack of engine braking indicates that you mean an internal system fault of a sort not previously reported, hence the mystery.

[msvx95]

So far....I have started the car twice since I replaced my tranny resistor...
The first time cold....No blinking light
The second time when the engine was warm....No blinking light....

I'm 2 for 2.......Going to keep monitoring it of course.

Jason, you may want to get a new resistor....

[msvx95]

Wait a min....Jason....have you checked your codes anyways??? 16 blinks means the Tranny is storing a code anyways.... Why don't you disconnect the ground wire like I did in my "Resetting Codes" thread and turn the car to "on" and headlights on... Maybe disconnect and reconnect battery at the same time too.
Just a thought....

Is it possible your problem is not a number 11 tranny code?? Check it...if you haven't done so already.

[Budfreak]

Originally Posted by msvx95

Wait a min....Jason....have you checked your codes anyways??? 16 blinks means the Tranny is storing a code anyways.... Why don't you disconnect the ground wire like I did in my "Resetting Codes" thread and turn the car to "on" and headlights on... Maybe disconnect and reconnect battery at the same time too.
Just a thought....

Is it possible your problem is not a number 11 tranny code?? Check it...if you haven't done so already.

Matt, trying starting it up and once it's warm try mashing the pedal a few times to make the shift kit switch to the high side. Then shut it off and restart it and see what happens.

[Budfreak]

What I mean by "fault mode" Trevor is it seems once you unplug the resistor while the vehicle is running(or if the circuit goes to an open), It will not read the resistance if you plug it back in until you restart the car. It would seem the 670 OHMs that smallcar decided on is just enough to keep the computer reading the resistance, But not enough to keep the light from blinking. Here's a test to see if what I think is happening really is:
1.Start the car and let it warm up with the resistor plugged in.
2.Then unplug the resistor and go for a test drive.
3.Drop the shifter into 3rd gear and let off the gas pedal while doing about 45-50 MPH. What do the RPM's do? Do the RPMs drop to nearly idle, Or do they stay up above 2K and supply engine braking?(It should drop to nearly idle and the car will coast as if in neutral)
4.Now pull over and plug the resistor back in without shutting off the engine. 5.Go for another test drive doing the same as before in 3rd gear. Do you get the same results as before?

If so, Then I believe the computer goes into a fault mode anytime restance either gets to high or goes infinite(open) and just ignores the resistor circuit until the vehicle is shut off and restarted. This all leads me to believe that what Trevor says is right and we need a lower resistance than 670 OHM. As soon as I get a chance I'll pick up a 400 ohm resistor and see if the light stops blinking.

Another things that leads me to believe all this is if I first start the car in the morning, I'll having no blinking power light. For as long as I drive very conservatively and don't activate the shift kit the light will not blink on start up, But the first time I get on it and activate the shift kit the light will blink the next time I shut it off and restart it. But if I shut it off and restart it again, The light does not blink. So the only time it's picking up a fault code and making the light blink is when the shift kit goes to the 670 OHM resistor.

[msvx95]

Damn it....6 for 7.....My seventh startup the light freakin blinked.
Stupid Small Car crappy shift kit!!!

Jason, waiting on your results..........

[msvx95]

Jason, what do you mean "activate" the shift kit?...I drive normally too....
I usually drive in 3 for city and then D on the freeway...and I don't jump on the gas either.

[oab_au]

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...7&postcount=40


Harvey.

[Budfreak]

Originally Posted by msvx95

Jason, what do you mean "activate" the shift kit?...I drive normally too....
I usually drive in 3 for city and then D on the freeway...and I don't jump on the gas either.

The shift kit is a vacuum activated switch. When it has vacuum, It makes a direct connection to your stock resistor. When you mash the gas pedal beyond a certain point and the vacuum goes away on the switch, It switches to put the 670 OHM resistor in series with the stock resistor thereby raising line pressure in the tranny for firm shifts. By "activate" I mean take away vacuum from the switch either by unplugging the vacuum line to the shift kit, Or by pressing the throttle beyond a certain point while driving.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by oab_au

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...7&postcount=40


Harvey.

The values and calculations are wrong, read the complete thread.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by Trevor

The values and calculations are wrong, read the complete thread.

Well I have read the whole thread, so may be you could point out, where my " values and calculations are wrong"?

Harvey.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Well I have read the whole thread, so may be you could point out, where my " values and calculations are wrong"?

Harvey.

You wrongly assume that the circuits involve a simple direct current. They do not, in any shape or form. It is strange that even the magical proposal you have so wrongly put forward over the years, says otherwise. Where is the logic, much less the mathematics ? You are out of your depth.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by Trevor

You wrongly assume that the circuits involve a simple direct current. They do not, in any shape or form. It is strange that even the magical proposal you have so wrongly put forward over the years, says otherwise. Where is the logic, much less the mathematics ? You are out of your depth.

What a crappy answer, I would expect an answer that has some technical expertize in it, but this is a waste of space.
This is the reasoning that I put forward in suggesting a different value resistor:

As far as the flashing light goes. I think this is caused by the resistor that they have used to increase the dropping resistance. The resistance is too high when the switch opens.

The normal setup has about 12 Ohms for the dropping resistor, 3 Ohm for the A solenoid. This 15 Ohm flows about 933 Mil amps(Applied voltage about 12V).As the signal is a Duty Cycle, the current flow is applied as a percentage of time. Hence a percentage of the DC current flow. At closed throttle it is 95% or 827 Mil amps. When the throttle is fully open it is 5% or 43 Mil amps.

It is this current flow that reduces the ATF line pressure, when the engine load is low, bringing it back up when the the throttle is open and the load is increased. So the line pressure is reduced when not needed, to save power

When the kit is fitted, and it (is adjusted to ) opens at about 50% throttle, the combined DC resistance with the 680 Ohm resistor, is about 700 Ohms flowing 20 Mil amps. When the switch opens at about half throttle the current flow drops to 50% of that,DC resistance or 10 Mil amps, if the pedal is on the floor, it drops to 20 Micro amps.

The TCU is expecting to see about 43 Mil amps, but sees 20 micros instead, decides something is wrong so it posts the code. The fix would be to reduce the additional 680 Ohm resistor to a, 47 Ohms 1/2 watt.

This would see 25 Mil amps at half throttle, and 2.5 Mil amps at full throttle, which should keep the TCU happy.
As the TCU will post a code, for abnormal current flow or abnormal inductance. As the reduced current flow caused by the high resistance, can cause both of these faults, I think a reduction in the added resistance would allow the kit to work without the flashing light problem.

I see you say to Budfreak to reduce the resistor to 400 ohms, with no supporting reasons given.

Try reducing the value of the auxiliary resistor to approximately say 400 ohms and a minimum of one watt rating.

How did you arrive at that value, and why?

Harvey.

[msvx95]

I'd love to chime in about circuits, etc. ..but I don't have much knowledge...
The shift kit would have a resistor with the color codes of 1st digit band - Blue, 2nd digit band- Violet, multiplier band- brown ?? to make 670 Ohms correct?

So would we all agree to replace that resistor with one in the 400 Ohm range to see if things work? 1st digit band- Yellow, 2nd digit band - black, multiplier band- brown?

Correct me if I'm wrong, thanks.

[Earthworm]

I think you've got it.

I like this site:
http://www.dannyg.com/examples/res2/resistor.htm