SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"

[Dessertrunner]

Tom do you mean on a race engine or road car? On a road car they can be left as is as long as the bottom pipe is change. On a race car block one and leave the heater pipe as is.
Tony

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Tom do you mean on a race engine or road car? On a road car they can be left as is as long as the bottom pipe is change. On a race car block one and leave the heater pipe as is.
Tony

I plan on leaving the heater core pipe as this car will still need the heater. I plan on blocking the other one because all I see it doing is recirculating hot water out of the LH head back into the pump I never really noticed this before.

Tom

[Dessertrunner]

You got it in one Tom, and by the way when you change your top pipe as you suggest it will be even better, Have a great day.
Tony

[TomsSVX]

will give it a go with the new top pipe once it is back from powder coating. If we are still running into heat issues, I will try the lower inlet change. Problem is, this would mean getting a new ratiator with the larger outlet on the bottom along with a silicone hose to match it.

Tom

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Hate to burst your bubble Trevor but do you know what a close loop is as regards the cooling circut. You seem to have in your mind some kind of perpetual motion and it just doesn't happen that way.
The simple fact is that a closed loop cooling system that has pressure on the outlet of the pump doesn't mean that it then provides pressure to the suction, it just doesn't happen as you think.
One trial I did was with a pump only with the out let going back into the suction. Surprise, surprise there was no pressure on the outlet of the pump and no vacum on the inlet because the systen was balanced provided I used larger pipe on the thermostate cover. With the standard size outlet the pressure went up and the suction went vacum.

Before you come back and debate, as they say in the classic's "The proof is in the pudding". I have the wrungs on the board Steve's buggy now runs cool and that would have to be the only SVX engine in the world that is staying cool. So it your turn to put up the facts not words, provide postive proof and I will admit I am wrong.
Tony

Tony,

I neither appreciate nor do I accept, the uncalled for sarcasm.

I am fully conversant with the various types of automotive cooling systems, both past and present. What is more the basis of your theory is understood, bur not necessarily accepted.

MY post read:-

When, where and how has it been indicated, much less proven, that the SVX cooling system, when operating at a pressure of in excess of 10 PSI and closed to the atmosphere, has vacuum or a negative pressure, anywhere within the closed circuit?

As a result of your indirect reply it appears confirmed, that as I had presumed, a normal SVX cooling system has not in fact been tested and no directly relevant figures have been recorded.

[JONES OFF ROAD]

On my buggy engine, I have blocked both fittings at the thermostat housing, and blocked the fittings on the top pipe also!
And I can guarantee that the problem in MY situation was rectified by the larger housing inlet.......I also reckon it should work in the road car version, but we need to see someone try it!

[SVXRide]

Where is Tony? Hope he's got all his irrigation pumps fixed so he can get back to getting his SVX back on the road and give us some real world feedback on the mods! I've got a PWR radiator that hasn't gone in RacerX yet because it still has the stock outlet
-Bill

[BRADY]

At the end of all this, can somebody PLEASE summarise what was gained out of the last 54 pages of yabber and TELL US HOW TO KEEP OUR (road going, yet well driven) ENGINES COOL in the most effective way.

Mike

[svxistentialist]

Originally Posted by BRADY

At the end of all this, can somebody PLEASE summarise what was gained out of the last 54 pages of yabber and TELL US HOW TO KEEP OUR (road going, yet well driven) ENGINES COOL in the most effective way.

Mike

Mike

I have never ever heard tell of any standard road going SVX having any difficulty keeping the engine cool with normal or even spirited driving. The main exceptions to that statement is that the plastic top on the OEM radiator splits when old enough, and we have heard of a number of people having leaks in the heater matrix, both situations causing loss of coolant obviously.

The only people having cooling problems are those in competition. Track use means revving the engine at 4-6 thousand revs constantly. These people have encountered overheating problems in the EG33.

Tony has overcome one instance of that by designing and fitting a larger inlet feed pipe to the water pump. There is also talk of fitting a larger and branched water pipe connecting the two halves of the block under the inlet manifold. To date we don't have data to prove this second upgrade works and improves cooling, but most of us are convinced it will be a big help.

Basically unless you are turbo charging your engine to 4-5 hundred horse, or doing circuit competitions with your car, don't spend as much as a cent. You don't need to.

If your plastic radiator top splits, it would be a wise move to replace with an improved all metal one, but that's about it.

Joe

[Dessertrunner]

Joe my only comment about standard radiator and road cars is it does depend were you live. As the temp gets to 45 C here and if you are stuck behind a truck on the freeway you car will boil with standard radiator. You are right in what you are saying to Brady. The majority of SVX's are auto and don;t hold there revs up high like you say so they don't have the same kind of problem.
Bill I am nearly ontop of my problems does anyone know how Adam got on with his change.
Tony

[svxistentialist]

Thanks for qualifying that Tony. You are correct of course. People with manual gearbox cars living in high temperature areas, particularly hilly hot areas, will possibly experience heating problems.

The same applies to the auto transmissions now that I think of it. Hot and hilly areas really work them hard and they create lots of heat as a consequence.

Which reminds me Mike. I read recently about a new type of ceramic liner that might be just the job for insulating our transmission tunnels. The trade name is Zircoflex, it's made in the UK, and you can read about it and even order it here:

Zircotec home page

Joe

[dynomatt]

Hi Joe,

In Australia, the ACL Heat Shield product is possibly as good, and definitely cheaper. A 1600mm x 580mm sheet is approximately $200AUD.

http://www.aclperformance.com.au/prod_heatshield.htm

I've used this making turbo heat shields and it's fantastic stuff. Can be mounted by self tapping scres, and can be molded to almost any shape. Well worth it.

Cheers,
Matt

[BRADY]

Originally Posted by dynomatt

Hi Joe,

In Australia, the ACL Heat Shield product is possibly as good, and definitely cheaper. A 1600mm x 580mm sheet is approximately $200AUD.

http://www.aclperformance.com.au/prod_heatshield.htm

I've used this making turbo heat shields and it's fantastic stuff. Can be mounted by self tapping scres, and can be molded to almost any shape. Well worth it.

Cheers,
Matt

That is awesome Matt.

Here in New South Wales, we have experienced 45 degree Celsius days this summer. THAT IS 113 degrees Fahrenheit for non-metric people. (I will post photos of my outside temp gauge) This, plus the fact that I am a bit of a hoon, gives me enough reason to be concerned about heat. I already have a massive, aftermarket radiator w/transmission oil cooler but can still feel heat in the cabin!!

[svxistentialist]

Yep, that looks like nice kit Matt. Thanks for the link. Dare I say it, it looks cool.

I like the idea of the honeycomb sandwich better than the English foil product. It could be forced into the shape of the tunnel over the gearbox and held in place with a couple of studs or clips.

Mike, if you do fit it keep us informed please. I'd buy one or two sets of those for my cars. As you say, it's hot summer weather when you notice the heat leaking in. Better if it's kept out and not have the aircon working its nuts off.

Joe

[BRADY]

Originally Posted by svxistentialist

Yep, that looks like nice kit Matt. Thanks for the link. Dare I say it, it looks cool.

I like the idea of the honeycomb sandwich better than the English foil product. It could be forced into the shape of the tunnel over the gearbox and held in place with a couple of studs or clips.

Mike, if you do fit it keep us informed please. I'd buy one or two sets of those for my cars. As you say, it's hot summer weather when you notice the heat leaking in. Better if it's kept out and not have the aircon working its nuts off.

Joe

Joe,

I am about to go on tour with the band for a few months, so I will not have the time to fit it any time soon!

I intend to install the heat shield and perform a few other mods when I get back.

Cheers!