JDM Power switch pic or explaination plz - Page 5

michael · #61 02-28-2010, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Black88GTA

Yes, although it seems that the white portion is only under the black coating on part of the button (the general area of the text). I did want the button to light up like the others in the cluster, but it seems like that may be a bit tough to do cleanly.

I think a non-illuminated button will definitely be the easiest way to go so that it doesn't stick out and look bad, since I think a reverse stencil of the size I'd need would be pretty hard to pull off so that it looks good. So, I just spent a few minutes with one of the blank buttons and the belt sander, and it looks like it'll work great.

For anyone reading who wants to modify the blank button to be functional: In addition to taking the button "skirt" down so that the button can move, you will also have to put two notches on the underside of the button just above the hooks that hold the button onto the mechanism. There is a flat, immobile portion of the button mechanism underneath that, when the button is pushed, extends up almost all the way inside the button recess. The moving buttons have these areas cut out already (obviously) but the blanks do not. I used a dremel sidecutter bit, which worked beautifully.

If it is only part of the button then I would say have a decal printed on translucent vinyl. Only the black would be printed and opaque, leaving the white to glow when lit. If non illuminated works for you then cool. Did you take any pics? I may need to make a rear fog lamp switch in the future.

Black88GTA · #62 02-28-2010, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svxistentialist

You're welcome man.

Michael is not steering you wrong. Reverse stencil is how the switch was originally painted. The people who do signwriting on the sides of vehicles could do it up for you on their computer programme. They can size things big or small and select from thousands of fonts.

You might try contacting this guy Peter in NZ:

Racer4x

He's the lad who broke 3 svxes and Steve [surtees] bought door switches from him. He may possibly have the part you need.

Joe

Thanks for the contact information - I might get in touch with him if I decide to change out my dash button, or use it for something else. I had a few minutes today, so I decided to just install the button as-is, without any lettering on it. I took it for a spin after getting everything all buttoned up, and what a difference. Goodbye, 5 seconds of slop between the 1-2 shift!

Quote:

Originally Posted by viking64

I looked into what I have, there is no part number

took some snaps

Yes, this is exactly what I was looking for! I love the way it integrates with the console. Would it have been that hard for FHI to put this in the US cars?

Quote:

Originally Posted by michael

If it is only part of the button then I would say have a decal printed on translucent vinyl. Only the black would be printed and opaque, leaving the white to glow when lit. If non illuminated works for you then cool. Did you take any pics? I may need to make a rear fog lamp switch in the future.

I'm not sure I want to use a decal in this case, only because I feel like the adhesive might deteriorate / become gooey with heat and usage, causing the decal to come off or something later on. I think I'm good with my opaque button for now, getting it to illuminate seems like it may be more trouble than it's worth.

I did get a few pics of the buttons...I'll add them to this post in a bit.

EDIT: A few pics. My computer was acting up, so I had to restart. Anyways.

The blank button next to a functional one. You have to take down the blank so that it sits at the same height as the functional one. I used a belt sander.

The back of the two buttons. If you look closely, you can see where the functional button has a notch above each side hook (where they attach to the mechanism). You will need to add these notches to the blank for it to work.

The mechanism that is behind the blank. The "square" portion is already spring-loaded and moves and everything. The part you see near the top that runs just below the top of the square is immobile - this is why you need to cut the notches in the blank. As for the actual switch, I modified a SPST pushbutton that I got from Radio Shack, drilled a hole in the back of the switch pod, and mounted it in there behind the dash button so that it is activated when the button on the dash is pressed. I don't think I have any pics of that, I did it a long time ago. If I find any, I'll post them.