Starting my 5 Speed Install! Help requested.

[TomsSVX]

Although I did not actually do the conversion on my car, I needed to go back and basically redo it, so don't waste your time and money on that kit

Tom

[rmjjensen]

I didn't even think about purchasing the small car kit. I've seen it, but just from the general opinions about it from this site decided not to get it.

I don't even understand what the kit comes with aside from the parts from the donor car that you need. I did the install myself and had to fabricate a few pieces but nothing to extreme (aside from the crossmember).

I had to make:
...plate for the firewall so there's not a huge hole where the clutch master bolts up
...plate surrounding the manual shifter so I could use the stock SVX mounting holes
...L brace for the rear of the shifter linkage (emulates what was on the WRX that I took it from)
...rear tranny crossmember
...notched the xmember for the back of the WRX trans (although when it's actually all the way up it doesn't seem to get in the way)
...extended tabs on the pedal box assembly to use the stock SVX mounting holes
...had to modify the SVX gas pedal mount and WRX pedal box slightly
...had to enlarge part of the hole in the firewall for the push rod on the clutch master
...had to bend the brake lines
...had to thread a bolt in the trans for the missing starter bolt

and I think that's it. It really wasn't difficult. More just a pain in the ass. I don't see how you really need mechanical knowledge to do this. granted I do have some but it's all just nuts and bolts with some creativity. i guess we'll see what happens when I start beating on it - see if I feel some slop or harshness, or flex, or noises. I did start her up today (open headers sounds mean btw) and shifted through the gears. Everything seemed in order and the clutch was working nicely.

Anyone who actually bought the small car kit - I've heard they give you tabs for the crossmember - wtf do they want you to do with them? I don't see how that can help.

Question: There's a Nuetral Safety Switch in the trans - it's a closed circuit when the trans is in ANY gear, and an open circuit when it is in nuetral. This is perfect so my auto start doesn't try to start when the car is in gear ...also I figure you could use this to tell the ECU the car is in "drive" when in gear, and "N" when out of gear. or is there no point in doing this?

hopefully the driveshaft is ready tomorrow ....and it's the right size...then I can take her out and see if everything went well.

[TomsSVX]

good for you man. maybe we can meet up sometime and compare like John and I did when he finished his

Tom- supporting more 5mt members in Jersey

[rmjjensen]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

good for you man. maybe we can meet up sometime and compare like John and I did when he finished his

Tom- supporting more 5mt members in Jersey

That would be cool ...maybe an ultimate write up of "do's and don'ts for a 100% successful 5 speed swap"

[Earthworm]

Originally Posted by rmjjensen

Question: There's a Nuetral Safety Switch in the trans - it's a closed circuit when the trans is in ANY gear, and an open circuit when it is in nuetral. This is perfect so my auto start doesn't try to start when the car is in gear ...also I figure you could use this to tell the ECU the car is in "drive" when in gear, and "N" when out of gear. or is there no point in doing this?

That's for your cruise control. It's in case the shifter gets bumped out of gear it will cancel the cruise.

[rmjjensen]

Originally Posted by Earthworm

That's for your cruise control. It's in case the shifter gets bumped out of gear it will cancel the cruise.

I see ...makes sense.

I got the driveshaft back today!! It fits perfectly. I've never heard about what I did so hear goes:

...Bought a 2-piece seperable driveshaft from a 1997 Subaru Outback w/ Automatic Transmission from salvage yard
...Placed the front portion into the back of the trans and the center bolts match up 100%; perfectly!
...The rear section is slightly too big...sent the rear portion to the driveshaft shop to get SHORTENED 3/16" (probably could've went with 1/8 but it's good to have some play in the front section)

Odd huh? Outback shaft from an automatic worked perfect - no modifying the 3/8" off the cup! The driveshaft shop hooked it up too ...gave me new joints that have grease fittings.

So I hooked up the driveshaft and had all 4 spinning off the ground. Going good so far. I went to go put the exhaust up and the heat shield is rubbing against the driveshaft - if I bend it down it stops ...so tomorrow I'll have to fix the dam shield. It's dark!


Oh she's almost done!!!!

[TomsSVX]

just rip that heat sheild off... No side effects just watch the leaves you park over...

Tom

[Johnybeas]

wow ok.. so small car is no good. I have only gotten on the forums recently and I never really saw the ones about small car being bad I'm glad that I posted something. So if you do it all custom you just basically get everything from a donor car then? how does it work? what is a general ball park figure of total costs? Also rmjjensen you said you just need basic knowledge and it's not that difficult to figure out, what did you use as a guidline as to what to pull out when and what exactly you needed to replace? I would love to save money and for sure if it's better than I'll go custom. What are we looking at for total maintenence time? I have access to a lift but I can't neccessarily leave my car up there forever because there are other students doing lifts and various other projects that they need the lifts for. As far as having time i have plenty of time I have 2 periods one day and 1 the other so that's about 3 hrs one day and 90 minutes another everyday of the week. but yeah if you guys can help me out it'ld be very much appreciated. Sorry if my questions are dumb. I'm just tryin to figure this stuff out. thanks again guys
-Johny

[rmjjensen]

JohnyBeas:

..So if you do it all custom you just basically get everything from a donor car then? how does it work? what is a general ball park figure of total costs?

--You need to get a bunch of parts from the donor car just to make it work in the very least. You'd need the trans, clutch master, clutch slave, clutch hydraulic lines, pedals, shifter linkage, starter, flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, and rear diff (depending on the trans you pick up). So - depending on where you get the parts and from what car will determine cost. I've heard figures of people spending as little as $500 for everything up to $2-3k.

..Also rmjjensen you said you just need basic knowledge and it's not that difficult to figure out, what did you use as a guidline as to what to pull out when and what exactly you needed to replace?

--This website helps a lot. Aside from that I have alldata access which gives me the service manual for every car out there. If I was ever confused, I could go online and get a picture/diagram/instructions to try and figure out what's going on.


..I would love to save money and for sure if it's better than I'll go custom. What are we looking at for total maintenence time?

--Depends how much time you have to work on it. I'm doing the car at my job, which is rough. If I ever really have to do something I'm off the SVX and workin on a customer's car. Generally I got to work on it for maybe 2-3 work days, on and off, out of a week. I'd probably say it took me a good 40 hrs to do everything. You do need access to a welder and general metal tools help, like a cutoff tool, airsaw, DA sander.

You don't really need a lift. I actually found it easy to do on the ground with four jack stands. Just make sure you get the front (or entire car) up high enough so you can get the trans out. A floor jack was all I needed for me and my brother to pull the SVX trans and lift the WRX one into place.

[rmjjensen]

trying to isolate a noise ....I think I foudn it

False Alarm - thank god.

[Earthworm]

Is it a random clunk like something rattling in the exhaust or is it rpm/speed sensitive like a CV joint?

[rmjjensen]

Originally Posted by Earthworm

Is it a random clunk like something rattling in the exhaust or is it rpm/speed sensitive like a CV joint?

False alarm. It seems its the exhaust rubbing against the driveshaft. I'll have to space it out.

It was more like a rythmic clunk variable with wheel speed, not engine RPM. Funny thing is it sounded EXACTLY the same as what my car was doing before it just stopped moving (what I assumed tobe the front diff).

Another question-> Did you guys tie the Engine Torque Control to a 5V signal at all times??

[mbtoloczko]

Originally Posted by rmjjensen

...
Another question-> Did you guys tie the Engine Torque Control to a 5V signal at all times??

Turns out that you don't need to do that. The circuitry holds itself high automatically. If you want the aux air controller to provide you with a high idle during engine warm up, you do need to ground the AT "neutral" position pin on the ECU.

[rmjjensen]

Oh boy do I have a story to tell.

During my test runs everything appeared to be okay - aside for minor exhaust runs. So I decided to take her home from the shop!!

Well, long story short after about another couple minutes of driving the car was feeling really weird. I'd hit the clutch and I'd slow down way too much and between shifts was awfully jerky. I had no clue what was going on and just figured - let me just get home. As I'm rounding the corner to my house I'm on the gas pretty hard and I'm barely moving in 1st/2nd gear. I step on the clutch and the engine revs REAL high (4-5k) and the car comes to a stop. WTF?! I see smoke coming from the front and say out loud - you gotta be f***in kidding me.

I put it in nuetral shut the car off and try to push - the SOB doesn't give. WTF?! I start trying to figure out where the smoke is coming from and it appears to be from the wheels. I thought for a couple minutes as I stood there thinking how I'm going to get this car moving (figured something in the drivetrain seized up). I think real hard

................... It's rather amusing ....turns out I must have messed up the brake booster when I was adding threads to the push rod (which I thought I might have done during the process). I pulled the vacuum line to the booster :::WOSH::: like a blow off valve and the car freed up. Starter her up and drove her slowly to my house (she was shifting like butter now and felt just right). Used the ebrake to stop and now it's parked.

So I guess i need a brake booster. Oh and the notrious crack on top of the radiator has now formed and is leaking But I'm realived it's just the booster. I was so upset and mad when I saw the smoke and the car wouldn't move and just shuddered

I'm going to try a WRX booster and master - I'm getting it from the guy who sold me the trans for free so it should make life a lot easier. Won't have to worry about threads.

[TomsSVX]

DONT BUY ANyTHING!!!! Do a search and find SVXhunter's thread for his swap. he had the same problem. I am uncertain of how he fixed it but it did not require him to buy anything new.... except maybe new brake pads

Tom