SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again" - Page 33

longassname · #**481** 11-09-2009, 07:10 AM

Aren't there plugs into the water jackets on the back of the heads?

SVXRide · #**482** 11-09-2009, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxersix

I have an idea about "ez30'ing" the EG33 coolant system. It can be done, but is not something that could be readily applied to an assembled motor, let alone one sitting in a car.

At least not yet that is. I have the ability to complete the process on any motor that's being built/assembled, but I'm going to look at a possibly "bolt in" solution. Doesn't mean it's possible but If it can be done I'll figure it out.

I am also building a flow rig to test some theories I have myself.

Damn, I need like 48hr workdays

Okay, so it has been more than 48 hours since your last post....

-Bill

Dessertrunner · #**483** 11-09-2009, 10:28 AM

Yes there is plugs at the back which we may have to use, but they are pretty small,
Tony

longassname · #**484** 11-09-2009, 11:44 AM

If one theory is that there is localized boiling because of a pressure difference between the left and right banks and another theory is that the cylinder heads (which see the most heat) get low flow because the outlets are on the block, and it could potentially be a combination of the two maybe putting a hose barb fitting into a plug on each cylinder head, and a couple hose barb fittings on the water outlet pipe right before the radiator hose, and using heater hose to outlet from the heads directly to the radiator would tackle both at the same time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Yes there is plugs at the back which we may have to use, but they are pretty small,
Tony

Boxersix · #**485** 11-09-2009, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Okay, so it has been more than 48 hours since your last post....

-Bill

I'm out of the shop most of this week working on some damn old Audi quatttro's. I pulled a few donor cases out of the aluminum dumpster to be cutup/welded for some testing. I have some 1/2" polycarbonate sheet arriving sometime this week. Will need that before I can do some of the testing.

I have to get an STi/SVX water pump(can be bad or blown for all I care). I need to dismantle that as well to create a dummy idler. I thought I had a few here but they're likely at the bottom of 2-3 tons of aluminum scrap at the moment.

One thing I do need from someone here is just a clear picture of the underside of the engine comparment area(engine in place), something taken from on a lift would be perfect, from about the headers forward.

All being done on free time when I'm not wrapped up in the typical shop/business work. I'll likely get to most of it over the weekend and will let you know what I find next week

Trevor · #**486** 11-09-2009, 09:17 PM

This complete on going scenario, can be logically aligned with excessive flow pressure at increased RPM.

Boxersix · #**487** 11-09-2009, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by longassname

If one theory is that there is localized boiling because of a pressure difference between the left and right banks and another theory is that the cylinder heads (which see the most heat) get low flow because the outlets are on the block, and it could potentially be a combination of the two maybe putting a hose barb fitting into a plug on each cylinder head, and a couple hose barb fittings on the water outlet pipe right before the radiator hose, and using heater hose to outlet from the heads directly to the radiator would tackle both at the same time.

I've actually done just that on my car(WRX with EG33) and routed the lines into a WRX purge tank. I haven't had the car running yet to test anyhting but it was very simple. I just TIG'ed up the head plugs with an external hex(large nut) and a steel 3/8" barb fitting then drilled them through.

I was going to port the block at the forward cylinders but I didn't want to do so w/o welding on bungs to the case, and can't do that in proper fashion without preheating the case halves(motor is fully assembled). Heads were just easy to do.

Dessertrunner · #**488** 11-10-2009, 07:31 PM

Steve was busy at a Jazz festival on the weekend so he didn't get to try the drilled water pump and I was away so didn't get to the motor.
Mike I think we are finding that the source of the problem is the suction on the pump being low and causing the coolent to boil before going into the pump. Seems we are getting real high PSI numbers on the outlet of the pump so I am assuming (bad idea) that the issues of restriction is with in the block.
Tony

Dessertrunner · #**489** 11-11-2009, 03:01 AM

Spoke to Steve today and he is looking to plug in to the back of the heads so I will keep you posted.
Tony

Dessertrunner · #**490** 11-11-2009, 12:35 PM

Also Steve looked at the water pump and is having trouble deciding were to drill holes and if they will be effective. It is not going to be a simple job and as a result I think he is going to try the pipes at the back of the head first. The problems he struck with the drilling are,
- Fins are two small.
- Can't remove the turbine with out breaking the pump,
- The high number of fins means that any hole in the back will have to be small.
- The back of the pump is hard against the block so we are not sure if anything can be acheived even if we can do it.
- Can't drill through the front due to the type of construction.

So in short I think this one is in the to hard for the moment bucket but will continue to think it through. Sorry about that Trevor we even looked at put it in a lath and cutting part of the dia down. I think that is the way we will most likly go.
Tony

Dessertrunner · #**491** 11-13-2009, 04:00 AM

Here is a photo of the water pump test bed. Had my fitter rough it up today, still have some issues to sort but you can see the electric motor underneath.
Tony

Trevor · #**492** 11-13-2009, 04:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Also Steve looked at the water pump and is having trouble deciding were to drill holes and if they will be effective. It is not going to be a simple job and as a result I think he is going to try the pipes at the back of the head first. The problems he struck with the drilling are,
- Fins are two small.
- Can't remove the turbine with out breaking the pump,
- The high number of fins means that any hole in the back will have to be small.
- The back of the pump is hard against the block so we are not sure if anything can be acheived even if we can do it.
- Can't drill through the front due to the type of construction.

So in short I think this one is in the to hard for the moment bucket but will continue to think it through. Sorry about that Trevor we even looked at put it in a lath and cutting part of the dia down. I think that is the way we will most likly go.
Tony

I am unable to understand your reference to the back and front of the pump being involved.

Please refer my post #16/262 and your excellent photo within Post #16/257.

You advised earlier that the impeller and shaft could be pressed out, in which case the photo indicates no access problem in respect of drilling the flat curved side of each blade, at a right angle to the shaft, fairly close to the outer end. A shame that this is impossible.

If you can not remove the impeller/turbine/rotor, do as I suggested in #262. Drill an access hole through the side of the body about at the end of the thumb in the picture, or anywhere on the side of the upper radius. This hole to be large enough to clear the say a 5 mm drill being used to drill the flat curved side of each and all blades. Obviously tap and plug the access hole afterwards.

Sixty odd years ago when I built my first car to go motor racing, I would have tackled such an experiment with no more than a small egg beater hand drill, and a carpenters brace. You young fellows are sure spoiled and getting soft.

Boxersix · #**493** 11-13-2009, 06:46 PM

Here is a picture of the return ports I have in the back of my heads. 1/2" barbs TIG welded to the OE allen plugs, of which are bored through now. These are purged up to the WRX tank.

Unfortunately this requires removal of the EGR valve assembly from the right side head to fit. I'll have the car up and running in the next week or so.

longassname · #**494** 11-13-2009, 07:21 PM

good man. Did you notice what thread the plugs are? Mcmaster car has 18, 20, and 22mm x1.5 metric male to 1/2"npt female adaptors. Stainless and expensive but an easier option for those with less fabrication abilities.

longassname · #**495** 11-13-2009, 07:32 PM

Actually, I found zinc plated steel ones--about $18 a piece. Then you could just screw any regular 1/2 npt to 1/2 hose elbow into them.