1995 Brilliand Red SVX L

[apkarian100]

I'm justing putting this here to help us later if need be:

[svxcess]

The voltage regulator is internal and not a separate unit. Usually replaced as part of a rebuild.

The voltage regulator is designed to short to an open circuit should it fail. At this point the alternator just stops working before any damage is done.

In rare instances, a regulator can short and send unregulated 18V directly to the battery, which absorbs this surge and usually gets fried in the process.

Check the sense wire from the alternator for integrity or corrosion. This is the wire that tells the voltage condition the condition of the battery. A bad wire can trick the alternator into putting out more voltage than it needs to. These are the wires which attach to the plug on the side of the alternator.


If you don’t have nearly full battery voltage on the field wire, then your regulator isn’t “asking” the alternator for full output. The (modern) regulator’s first job is to determine the appropriate battery voltage, which depending on battery type, and maybe temperature, will be 14 to 15 volts, during initial charge.

Next the regulator compares the battery voltage, as read by the “sense” voltage terminal, to the predetermined appropriate voltage. As long as the “sense” voltage is less than the appropriate voltage, the regulator is supposed to put out nearly full battery voltage on the field terminal.

If “sense” voltage is less than 14 volts and it is not putting out battery voltage on the field wire, you probably have a regulator problem.


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[apkarian100]

Will do. Thanks for the help man!

Originally Posted by svxcess

The voltage regulator is internal and not a separate unit. Usually replaced as part of a rebuild.

The voltage regulator is designed to short to an open circuit should it fail. At this point the alternator just stops working before any damage is done.

In rare instances, a regulator can short and send unregulated 18V directly to the battery, which absorbs this surge and usually gets fried in the process.

Check the sense wire from the alternator for integrity or corrosion. This is the wire that tells the voltage condition the condition of the battery. A bad wire can trick the alternator into putting out more voltage than it needs to. These are the wires which attach to the plug on the side of the alternator.


If you don’t have nearly full battery voltage on the field wire, then your regulator isn’t “asking” the alternator for full output. The (modern) regulator’s first job is to determine the appropriate battery voltage, which depending on battery type, and maybe temperature, will be 14 to 15 volts, during initial charge.

Next the regulator compares the battery voltage, as read by the “sense” voltage terminal, to the predetermined appropriate voltage. As long as the “sense” voltage is less than the appropriate voltage, the regulator is supposed to put out nearly full battery voltage on the field terminal.

If “sense” voltage is less than 14 volts and it is not putting out battery voltage on the field wire, you probably have a regulator problem.


.

[jcovey2.5]

Thanks for the help guys!

When I did the alternator wire mod I didnt replace the wires all the way back. so we are going to check for corrosion of the wires under the fuse box

[jcovey2.5]

So there was never an electrical short per say. It was the old alternator being bad that was the culprit. Mostly...

There was varistors (which are like mini surge protectors) that had fried in a few different things as well as the tcu. A friend of mine soldered new ones in, and i replaced the alternator with a higher output one and did the "Big 3".

Problem I'm facing now is when you put it in drive it stalls out completely, it will go in reverse though...

I'm not sure what exactly would cause this. I did try using another tcu that i grabbed from a junk yard, but that didnt make a difference.

Anyone know what the cause of the stalling may be? Possible the Torque Converter??

Thanks,
Joe

[ensteele]

Joe - post your VIN and curent mileage and I will get your car registered and give you your icon by your post count.

[jcovey2.5]

Originally Posted by ensteele

Joe - post your VIN and curent mileage and I will get your car registered and give you your icon by your post count.

Huh. I though i did a while ago,guess not...

[jcovey2.5]

I wanted to update because i have the old girl up and running!
I had it towed down to Manchester about a week and a half ago. I bought a new battery and first thing i did was try and switch out the TCU. Which worked and now no problems when put in drive. Must have worked this time because before i had it running off jumper cables and there wasnt enough power to keep it running in drive.

I went and got it registered the other day and had it checked over. Its amazing how little rust there is under the car! So it needed all new pads and rotors and some of the calipers where seized up a bit. As well needing a new drivers side brake line, so i ordered up some SS lines which i should have later this week. Also need all 4 struts, but it came with 2 brand new ones in the trunk. Also have to figure out why the ABS light is on and the blinkers and brake lights arent working.

Yesterday i did the pads and rotors and freed up the calipers, and will get the rear struts and hopefully the other things done so i can get it inspected asap!

[SVXMAN2001]

Great to hear of the progress. Glad you stuck with it and are going to get her own the road. You'll be glad you did. These cars are a blast to drive!