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  #31  
Old 02-01-2003, 05:33 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Smarty pants?????

Quote:
Originally posted by oab_au


OK, I'll do it, Your crazy!
You also need to learn how disk brakes work.

Only one side.!!!!!
Harvey.
This is a QUOTE that Hotshoe 50 sent me in a PM by mistake. I am sure he intended it to be here on this message board. So I have put it in the right place.


[QUOTE]
"smarty pants!!!
I do know how disc brakes work and these have only pistons on the inside of the caliper. The outer pads are compressed only by the U shaped casting and the actual rotor: they are NOT pushed against the rotor as they would be with a 4 piston caliper.

Yes the inner pistons pushing against the caliper does create some force on the outer pads but not a significant amount and if you think about it, any force transmitted to the outer pad is at the expense of force that would have been exerted against the inner pad and the rotor.

The new 4 piston calipers for my Mitsu are 11 inches high and each of the 4 pistons is 1.25" in diameter: now that will be serious stopping power as the VR4 weighs about the same as the SVX

Richard " [QUOTE]

You aren't even close. You still need to learn how disk brakes work.

Harvey.
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  #32  
Old 02-01-2003, 07:03 PM
JLittell
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Caliper Paint

Those who are interested in painting your calipers, EASTWOOD COMPANY sells paint kits for about $55.00. They have an assorment of colors.
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  #33  
Old 02-02-2003, 11:18 AM
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CigarJohnny CigarJohnny is offline
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If anyone is interested, and thinks they can do what Doug is doing, here is a link that might get you off on the right foot. Have fun if you decide to give it a try!

http://www.powderperfect.com/diy.asp
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  #34  
Old 02-02-2003, 07:30 PM
kuoh kuoh is offline
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Re: Smarty pants?????

I feel ya Harvey. I guess some people just don't understand the principles of action and reaction. Unless you have a stuck caliper, the force exerted on both sides are equal by nature of the U shaped FLOATING caliper design. The pads on the piston side can only exert pressure when pads on the other side exert the same pressure against the disc.

KuoH

Quote:
Yes the inner pistons pushing against the caliper does create some force on the outer pads but not a significant amount and if you think about it, any force transmitted to the outer pad is at the expense of force that would have been exerted against the inner pad and the rotor.
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  #35  
Old 02-02-2003, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CigarJohnny
If anyone is interested, and thinks they can do what Doug is doing, here is a link that might get you off on the right foot. Have fun if you decide to give it a try!

http://www.powderperfect.com/diy.asp
Keep in mind you CANNOT ever use an oven for cooking after you use it for powdercoating. You must use an electric oven.

A couple more tips:
After cleaning all the grease off, wash the parts thoroughly with water, then bake them for about 45 minutes at 500 degrees to get rid of any residue. If you do not, if will offgas during the powdercoating process and will leave pinholes in the finish.

After cleaning and baking, sandblasting is the easiest way to prepare the parts for coating.

Warm up the parts to about 175 - 200 degrees before spraying the powder. Then powdercoat the parts, then bake for about 22 minutes at 400 degrees.

Doug
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  #36  
Old 02-02-2003, 10:30 PM
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Why is that? Does the powder leave a residue in the oven that contaminates any food cooked afterwards?

KuoH

Quote:
Originally posted by mohrds
Keep in mind you CANNOT ever use an oven for cooking after you use it for powdercoating.
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  #37  
Old 02-03-2003, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mohrds


Keep in mind you CANNOT ever use an oven for cooking after you use it for powdercoating. You must use an electric oven.

A couple more tips:
After cleaning all the grease off, wash the parts thoroughly with water, then bake them for about 45 minutes at 500 degrees to get rid of any residue. If you do not, if will offgas during the powdercoating process and will leave pinholes in the finish.

After cleaning and baking, sandblasting is the easiest way to prepare the parts for coating.

Warm up the parts to about 175 - 200 degrees before spraying the powder. Then powdercoat the parts, then bake for about 22 minutes at 400 degrees.

Doug
Excellent tips, Doug! The article I linked to emphasises that you cannot use an oven you would later cook in, but you can never reiterate that warning enough I suppose. I had always thought that electricity was used in powder coating to make the powder stick to it's target but I suppose that is not the case. This is definitely something I would love to experiment with one day (among lots of others) and hope I get the chance. How long have you been doing this and what exactly is your primary profession? It sounds like you are a network guy like me but have lots of cool "hobbies".
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  #38  
Old 02-03-2003, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by kuoh
Why is that? Does the powder leave a residue in the oven that contaminates any food cooked afterwords?

KuoH

Yes it does. small amounts of powder fall off during the curing process (probably less than .01%) and adheres to the bottom of the oven. In later uses, it continues to burn and give off strange smells that are probably pretty bad for you.

Doug
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  #39  
Old 02-03-2003, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CigarJohnny
Excellent tips, Doug! The article I linked to emphasises that you cannot use an oven you would later cook in, but you can never reiterate that warning enough I suppose. I had always thought that electricity was used in powder coating to make the powder stick to it's target but I suppose that is not the case. This is definitely something I would love to experiment with one day (among lots of others) and hope I get the chance. How long have you been doing this and what exactly is your primary profession? It sounds like you are a network guy like me but have lots of cool "hobbies".
Static electricity is what holds the powder on until it is cured, then a chemical bond that I do not fully understand holds it on after curing.

I bought my powdercoater about 4 years ago in preparation for restoring one of my Mustangs. Well with life happening, buying and rehabbing a house and not having a garage yet, the Mustangs are still off in storage so I started to powdercoat other things. It works great for restoring 100 year old heater grates to that "just made" look.

I have been a network Guy for over ten years. I started out with Novell Netware (ELS Version I for those who can remember). In 1993 I went and jumped into this new thing called the Internet and was the CIO of an ISP until 1997. I did a few stints with various consulting companies then started my own consulting business about 3.5 years ago. I have grown it into having a staff of three people plus myself.

Before that I co-owned a restoration and auto-body shop. We did a lot of cool things on show cars and hot rods. Did you know that to properly chop a roof, you need to cut it into over 100 pieces and re-weld it together to get that perfect look?

I do have lots of cool hobbies that lately seem to be twisting together. We are gutting and rehabbing a 130 year old house and the concept of an old looking house with the newest technology sent me into the world of home automation which became very addicting.

Most of all, I am blessed to have a wife with patience and the skills to work on the house with me. She often asks for really cool tools for Christmas like pneumatic framing nailers or sandblasting booths

Doug
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1992 LS Touring (6/91)
Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler
1994 LSi (4/93)
Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction.

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Last edited by mohrds; 02-03-2003 at 08:06 AM.
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  #40  
Old 02-03-2003, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mohrds


Yes it does. small amounts of powder fall off during the curing process (probably less than .01%) and adheres to the bottom of the oven. In later uses, it continues to burn and give off strange smells that are probably pretty bad for you.

Doug
Heck, that sounds like the oven I use now. Do these things ever need to be cleaned?
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  #41  
Old 02-03-2003, 11:59 AM
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SVXRide SVXRide is offline
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Supply?

Doug,
I'm trying to schedule several pieces of work on my SVX (in addition to getting the garage cleared out to make room for the work!), so I was wondering how much time it would take between the time I told you the color I wanted and delivery of the calipers. Thanks.
p.s. nice to see you have at least one Mac in the house (G4, I hope).
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  #42  
Old 02-03-2003, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by sfsvx


Heck, that sounds like the oven I use now. Do these things ever need to be cleaned?
I try to scrape off the instant pizza residue at least monthly

Is that Hickory smoked? Naw, its just Italian Sausage smoked

Doug
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1994 LSi (4/93)
Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction.

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  #43  
Old 02-16-2003, 10:22 PM
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2 = 1/2 the price?

Doug,
Are you willing to ship out only 2 at a time? I'm looking to just finish upgrading my front brakes right now, with the back brakes to follow (once I get done paying for the rebuilt steering rack I just had to have put in!!!! ).
Thanks.
-Bill
p.s. yellow looks very slick!
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  #44  
Old 03-05-2003, 02:53 AM
SVXdriver_007
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mohrds

allright I tried to PM you but apparently your not so good at cleaning your mailbox so here it is

I'm interested in the powder coated calipers but not just yet. I do however have a friend who would like an alternator powder coated. he wants his SC done but that would have to be taken apart to do it so he's unsure. So any way what do you think for a price?

thanks,
Shane
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  #45  
Old 03-05-2003, 05:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mohrds


I try to scrape off the instant pizza residue at least monthly

Is that Hickory smoked? Naw, its just Italian Sausage smoked

Doug

Hello Doug,

Instant Pizza?
AARRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHH.
We know that you live on the frontier, but PULEASE !!!

We will be over with some real pizzas from Brooklyn. Put a concrete slab in the oven and preheat it to 465 deg. F.
See ya'.
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