ECU remap, nitrous, & supercharger - Page 21

Chicane · #**301** 04-15-2004, 07:30 PM

Wow. This looks fantastic. Really really really nice installation.

I'm ... hrm.. I don't really like nitrous much... but... hrm. You're starting to make me a believer.... the installation is so clean... looks great. I can't wait to see the results...

- Rob

Pure_Insanity8 · #**302** 04-15-2004, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by deruvian
This is so RAD! I can't believe it's even happening!

So, what if we wanted to use Stage 2 in conjunction with Stage 3?

Keep it up man!

KA-BOOM!

Both would be cool. We'll just need a lot more strengthening of... oh... just about everything.

SVXRide · #**303** 04-15-2004, 09:29 PM

I smell dyno runs in the wind (or is it just nitrous fumes...)

-Bill

#**304** 04-15-2004, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Pure_Insanity8

KA-BOOM!

Both would be cool. We'll just need a lot more strengthening of... oh... just about everything.

I just had hopeful thinking, that's all.

FlagstaffSVX · #**305** 04-17-2004, 03:32 AM

Starts the chant...

*dyno* *dyno* *dyno*

GreenMarine · #**306** 04-17-2004, 06:26 AM

Cool!!!! I can see th epics now!!! AWESOME!!!

FlagstaffSVX · #**307** 04-17-2004, 06:36 AM

Well... now instead of seeing little red x's I see big grey boxes with x's. There's hope for the future.

longassname · #**308** 04-17-2004, 07:37 PM

I didn't do a very good job taking pictures. I'll take some more tomorrow. I did the wiring today. This system wires up a little bit different than a normal NOS nitrous system because we need to create a ground signal in order to tell the stage 2 ECUtune chip to switch to the second set of code which is tuned for the nitrous shot. We need the nitrous to not be able to engage unless that signal is sent to the ecu chip and for that signal not be sent to the ecu chip unless the nitrous is armed and engaging. I accomplished this nicely by moving the throttle switch to our relay ground source. If you look back at the pictures from my fabrication of the throttle switch bracket you'll notice it bolts onto the intake with the bolt that attaches the ground stap--so it's a good ground source. The throttle switch of course only completes the circuit to ground when the throttle is pushed all the way. From the throttle switch the ground goes into the passenger compartment to the arming switch. Where a normal nitrous system has a single pole switch which switches the ignition power source on in order to arm the nitrous system our nitrous system uses a double pole switch. One pole switches ignition power source. The other pole switches the ground source (which is also switched by the throttle switch). ( I actually had to use two single pole switches for now since a dpst illuminated 12v 20A rocker switch is special order; the kit will come with a dpst rocker switch.) When you turn the ignition on power goes to one pole of the arming switch, with the sitch on that side of the switch is illuminated and power goes to the relay. When you floor the accelerator ground goes to the ground pole of the switch and that side of the switch is illuminated and ground is sent to the relay and to the ECUtune stage 2 chip.

Here's my scribbly version of the wiring schematic (it shows two switches now (2 spst switches are the same as 1 dpst switch).

Here's a pic of illuminated rocker when the system is armed.

Here's one with the accelerator pushed..if the engine was running and I had tied into the fuel and opened the nitrous bottle I'd be going really fast in this picture...I did none of the above for that reason.

I was so busy making pretty looking wiring harnesses I forgot to take pictures of them today but I did take some of the relay install. I put it right behind the battery using a nylon insert in one of the pre-existing holes to avoid drilling any new ones.

mranderson · #**309** 04-17-2004, 08:30 PM

so basically once armed the nitros is engaged by the throttle not a button correct?

lookin great man keep up the work.

longassname · #**310** 04-17-2004, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mranderson
so basically once armed the nitros is engaged by the throttle not a button correct?

lookin great man keep up the work.

correct

mranderson · #**311** 04-17-2004, 08:34 PM

awesome, so what kind of shot are you running(how many hp). You are truly amazing dude cant wait to give you my money.

longassname · #**312** 04-17-2004, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mranderson
awesome, so what kind of shot are you running(how many hp). You are truly amazing dude cant wait to give you my money.

130ish hp = 100 hp at the wheels

thanks, we'll be taking orders next week

#**313** 04-17-2004, 09:03 PM

You're definitely getting my dollar as soon as this stuff is for sale!

Subafreak · #**314** 04-18-2004, 06:43 PM

I'm thinking I'll be going for the stage two after all. Besides wiping out my bank account is fun.

longassname · #**315** 04-18-2004, 07:29 PM

I finished up the nitrous install today. All that was left was tieing into the fuel and nitrous supplies and changing the spark plugs. Pictures of the last of it follow.

We tie into the high pressure fuel system from the hose that leads to the engine from the output of the fuel filter. To make the connection we assemble a fuel manifold using a 4 way 1/4NPT, two hose barbs, and a 4An fitting for the fuel supply line going to the solenoid. The threads of the 1.4NPT side of each fitting are sealed with pipe thread compound which is resistent to pretty much any material and withstands 3000 psi of gas pressure.

Since I'm tuning the system I included a fuel pressure guage so I can monitor everything.

Here you can see the manifold added into the fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine.

Start the car up and yes everything looks healthy. 30 psi at idle, 36 psi with the vacum line removed from the fuel pressure regulator or the throttle down. The fuel pressure will be at 36 psi while the nitrous is activated. Not that you need to know this but I do.

Now with everything done in the engine compartment we can take a step back and look at the completed install.

And in the trunk is the bottle of course.

Ok that's it for the nitrous system. We still need to change the spark plugs though so that's what I did last having let the engine cool down while I did everything else. Spark plugs are responsible for large amount of engine cooling. The transmit heat to the water jackets which surround them. The higher the heat range the quicker the spark plug will transfer heat and the cooler the spark plug itself as well as the engine will stay. To deal with the extra heat from the 130 hp our nitrous kit will be adding we need to go with a higher heat range plug--a colder plug. The stock plugs are also double platinum plugs which are truly outstanding for normal applications but melt and spatter when used with nitrous oxide. To replace them we use another NGK plug, the iridium IX BKR7EIX. This plug is a step colder than the stock plug and will take care of cooling the additional heat from about 70-100 of the 130 hp we are adding. We can't go two steps colder because then the plugs would not run hot enough during daily driving to self clean. Fouled plugs are no good. That's not a problem though because me can make up the difference in cooling by riching up the afr.

Whenever you change your plugs you should lable which cyllinder each one comes out of and inspect them as they are a good indicator of engine condition. I won't get into how to read a plug in here as it would be impossible to explain and take a billion pics plugs to teach all there is to know. Looking at the plugs that came out of my engine. Everything looks honky dory. The plugs are in excellent condition. The electodes are perfectly clean and the insulators are damn close to it. The small amount of light beige on the insulators indicates the engine runs a little bit lean but we already know that--that's part of why we're making the chip for it.