11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build - Page 20

TomsSVX · #**286** 06-03-2010, 04:17 PM

Well got the rad cap on here today... I have since gotten rid of the AUX idle air controller and capped the vac port... WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! Have had issues with getting his idle to level out at a decent RPM with an AFR a little better than 13.0. I thought it was just the big lift cams decreasing vacuum at idle enough to make it difficult but the duration is not enough to make it *that* lopey. So plugged the port, ripped the valve out... Now we have a good idle between 800-950 RPM at full temp which will allow me to pull fuel back for an emmisions testing friendly 14.7-15.0 AFR from idle up to 2300RPM. Of course with a little load applied we will be right in the gold for making power but this was merely to test emissions (no load). Plus, it helps keep fuel consumption down when idling which is always a good thing.

Car is running very well, a tad bit less noisy from the top end thanks to a quicky valve adjustment (moving shims). Will be running it around tomorrow for some road tests and will declare it race ready once I am sure all is 100%. Glad to see oil pressure is back to normal, just around 10psi@ idle with 35-40psi @3000rpm with no load... This is running a race 20/50 right now and will suggest the oil be a race bread synthetic at the first change with identical weights.

Now maybe I can have my garage back so I can bring my fatboy home

Tom

SVXRide · #**287** 06-03-2010, 07:07 PM

YT,
Do you think removing the Aux idle air controller is only feasible because you're running a Hydra with Dan's engine? Pics?
-Bill

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

Well got the rad cap on here today... I have since gotten rid of the AUX idle air controller and capped the vac port... WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! Have had issues with getting his idle to level out at a decent RPM with an AFR a little better than 13.0. I thought it was just the big lift cams decreasing vacuum at idle enough to make it difficult but the duration is not enough to make it *that* lopey. So plugged the port, ripped the valve out... Now we have a good idle between 800-950 RPM at full temp which will allow me to pull fuel back for an emmisions testing friendly 14.7-15.0 AFR from idle up to 2300RPM. Of course with a little load applied we will be right in the gold for making power but this was merely to test emissions (no load). Plus, it helps keep fuel consumption down when idling which is always a good thing.

Car is running very well, a tad bit less noisy from the top end thanks to a quicky valve adjustment (moving shims). Will be running it around tomorrow for some road tests and will declare it race ready once I am sure all is 100%. Glad to see oil pressure is back to normal, just around 10psi@ idle with 35-40psi @3000rpm with no load... This is running a race 20/50 right now and will suggest the oil be a race bread synthetic at the first change with identical weights.

Now maybe I can have my garage back so I can bring my fatboy home

Tom

dynomatt · #**288** 06-03-2010, 07:15 PM

I'm running a standalone and am running my IAC on a temperature decay setting. I had to adjust the idle speed screw to increase the idle bypass to get this to work.

I tried to set it up as closed loop, but it wouldn't work.

It sounds like Tom has gone further than me and removed the IAC from the system alltogether. To cope, he presumeably has a bunch of extra fuel going in and idle response when it's very cold might be a bit sluggish...like a carby car without a choke.

M

TomsSVX · #**289** 06-03-2010, 07:52 PM

Whoa, back up the misinterpretation bus... The Aux idle air controller is not the one mounted under the throttle body. It is the secondary mounted on the water manifold. This is a valve that is monitored by the ECU but responds based on the temp of the manifold. Without is being mounted, it was essentially open all the time with the new manifold and caused me some issues.

I have full control over the stock IAC which is what I use to keep the airflow ideal per temp of the water. I have target idle speeds set for given temp readings, so when the car is cold it will idle around 1500rpm and warm it will slowly decline as coolant temps increase.

Tom

dynomatt · #**290** 06-03-2010, 08:03 PM

Ooohhh...interesting. I left mine in and it's disconnected and not used in the MS case.

My research suggested it defaulted to open (ie inoperative) when disconnected from the ECU.

Sounds like it's not the case...but I have no idle issues.

M

dynomatt · #**291** 06-06-2010, 04:06 AM

Have I missed whether you had any plans to dyno it? I'm trying to get a bit of comparitive data. I'm about 2 weeks away from the ITB's.

M

TomsSVX · #**292** 06-06-2010, 07:27 AM

dynoed it a couple months ago... Charts are floating around here somewhere

Tom

shotgunslade · #**293** 06-06-2010, 07:09 PM

I posted them earlier in this thread.

dynomatt · #**294** 06-06-2010, 07:23 PM

Yes thanks found them.

Matt

dynomatt · #**295** 06-22-2010, 04:57 PM

Hi Tom,

Do you have a record of the installed cams specs? ie, centrelines (or LCA's) etc?

I did mine last night...kind of happy, but not ideal. Hard to work out how to change it even if we wanted to.

Thanks,
Matt

TomsSVX · #**296** 06-22-2010, 05:49 PM

I don't lost it in the move out of the shop... Would have to call Web cam and get the specs with the grind #'s

Tom

dynomatt · #**297** 06-22-2010, 06:41 PM

How did you static time it though? Did you just use the factory specs? ie...aligning notches on cams at TDC etc?

We did mine again last night, and the manual didn't seem right. I vaguely recall having the same trouble last time.

M

TomsSVX · #**298** 06-22-2010, 06:43 PM

timing was set to factory specs... If I recall properly I did not change the lob centers either... merely adjusted duration and lift to match desired optimal torque and HP with solid buckets in mind.

Tom

dynomatt · #**299** 07-04-2010, 12:55 AM

So mine threw a rod today too.

Had the ITB's singing...found it could revved easily to 7500rpm before I got nervous and changed gear. It felt like it could pull past there without any trouble.

Now has the dreaded knock...digga digga digga digga on idle.

A while back there was some speculation about clearances on the bearings being quite tight...Tom, did you look any further into that?

I reckon it should be able to cope with 7500rpm on the standard bottom end...no need to move to lightened rods or anything should I?

M

Dessertrunner · #**300** 07-04-2010, 01:13 AM

Does anyone know were we can find photos of the bearing & crank?
Tony