SVX on a dynomometer

[oab_au]

Subaru say not to do it.

When you run the car on he road with the fuse in, the front wheels drive the back wheels, through the road. This meens that both halfs of the transfer clutch rotate at the same speed.

When running the car on a two wheel dyno, only the front wheels are turning the backs are still, this meens that the transfer clutch has one side running at full bore and the other side is stopped. This will cause a large amount of heat and wear, that the clutch was not designed to have.

I agree with Pockets drive it on the road the dyno wont pick up the things you will on the road, Check the way it engages 2nd gear for slipping band, other wise that model should not have problems.

ChrisG just wants you to do it because he wont do it to his

Harvey.

[Phast SVX]

Originally posted by oab_au
Subaru say not to do it.

When you run the car on he road with the fuse in, the front wheels drive the back wheels, through the road. This meens that both halfs of the transfer clutch rotate at the same speed.

When running the car on a two wheel dyno, only the front wheels are turning the backs are still, this meens that the transfer clutch has one side running at full bore and the other side is stopped. This will cause a large amount of heat and wear, that the clutch was not designed to have.

I agree with Pockets drive it on the road the dyno wont pick up the things you will on the road, Check the way it engages 2nd gear for slipping band, other wise that model should not have problems.

ChrisG just wants you to do it because he wont do it to his

Harvey.

This is my understanding as well, and is also why 4wd vehicles are expempt from running on 2wd emmision dynos, just have to pass the sniffer.
phil

[CDG]

Make sense to me, and he's right, now I don't think you should do it.
Let your investor know of the Manufacturers recommendations

Had you not mentioned it I would have done it myself If I though it would bring any value to an auto evaluation, I was more interested in the results

Thanks for all the info regarding the dyno testing..
I read this minutes before the car was scheduled to be done and called and canceled that part of the test.

Turns out the ???valve??? seals are leaking oil onto the timing belt(which needs replacing anyway), the suspension is OE and definately shot (133Kmi), air conditioning compressor siezed up, vaccume likes are OE and needs replacing, brake pads are down to 5%, transmission fluid is burnt(even though it was drained and filled yearly) and... something to do with the steering is loose... cv joints? maybe...

needless to say, I think $4900 is too much. what do you think?

(paint was redone 2 yrs. ago and looks flawless, leather was professionally cleaned every yr and also looks flawless)

[CDG]

Sounds a little too expensive to me too.

[GreenMarine]

Almost went with NASIOC to thier Dyno meet last weekend to run my car, but decided that that $100 could be put twards my new clutch then I can rin my car at Subaru of Gwinnett later... But when I ren it I'll post the data so everyone can see...

[mbtoloczko]

Originally posted by That one guy >>
Thanks for all the info regarding the dyno testing..
I read this minutes before the car was scheduled to be done and called and canceled that part of the test.

Turns out the ???valve??? seals are leaking oil onto the timing belt(which needs replacing anyway), the suspension is OE and definately shot (133Kmi), air conditioning compressor siezed up, vaccume likes are OE and needs replacing, brake pads are down to 5%, transmission fluid is burnt(even though it was drained and filled yearly) and... something to do with the steering is loose... cv joints? maybe...

needless to say, I think $4900 is too much. what do you think?

(paint was redone 2 yrs. ago and looks flawless, leather was professionally cleaned every yr and also looks flawless)

Probably its the valve cover seals that are leaking onto the timing belt. Burnt tranny fluid is a bad sign. Do you live in a hilly area? You should definitely get the car out on the road and put some stress on that tranny to see if any of the clutches are slipping/not engaging. Get out there on a flat stretch, floor it from a dead stop, and keep it floored until after it switches into 4th gear (you'll be going well over the legal speed limit). If you get any rpm flares between shifts or while in gear, the tranny could be near its end.

$4900 is definitely too much. A new compressors will set you back $250 + labor, timing belt replacement is fairly expensive, valve cover seal replacement takes time, brake pad replacement is a couple hundred (if you have a shop do it). If the tranny is still ok, I think I'd offer $3.5K.

It's too bad that there are dealers out there who aren't familiar with their own product.........it only takes a few seconds to look up in a computer how many belts are on a particular car. Anyway, the SVX has one timing belt, just like the 2.0L,2.2L, and 2.5L. The 3.0 (Newer Legacy's) uses a timing chain. The Loyale, GL, DL, XT, RX and any other Subaru with a 1.8L had two timing belts. This was discontinued in 1994, when Subaru stopped making the Loyale series.




Dave

[oab_au]

The Euro version can be dynoed, on a 4 wheel dyno with the fuse fitted. The fuse on ths version locks the transmission into 4WD. This prevents shunting between front and rear rollers, it can be run like this with out any problems.

Harvey.

[benebob]

Originally posted by Mr. Pockets


Thanks, Mike. Thinking about it some more, I know I've seen diagrams of some Subarus with two timing belts. But, and somebody correct me if I'm wrong, nothing since the 80s.

XT6 in 91 and I'm pretty sure the Loyale. Although they were carryovers from the fabulous 80s.