ECU remap, nitrous, & supercharger

[GreenMarine]

Don't let Porter see this thread going into Resonatior purpose... He got into a BIG debate about Resinator being removed with someone here... All I can say is that what you guys are saying about the purpose of it may actually be true... But let me tell ya, I've ridden in Porter's SVX before he removed the Resionator and after... After the car was louder and seemed to pull harder... I liked it alot more than before... Granted it must have a purpose but most of it does with quietning down the exhaust... For the Full story just PM Porter and he'll tell ya the whole truth of it...

Well I'll say.......The Only purpose of the Resonator in any car is to CANCEL the exhaust wave noise that resembles a ting sound. The Resonator is no more than a premuffler that car makers install to make the vehicle a litttle quieter. Removing it does allow the engine to expel spent gases a little better and significant increases can be felt in turbo-charged applications. The main function is to pass the exhaust noise test though. I've gotten rid of mine on my SVX and on my turbocharged Probe. Oh yeah...It also cancels the pop and the flame up through the exhaust system. It isn't really needed at all though. because standard mufflers have that feature built into them...unlike a Flow Master or a Hooker muffler which are basically flow through designs with a resonance chamber built in to produce a loud exhaust.


DAMN: I'm talking about the wrong Resonator! Screw It.........Read it anyway...LOLOLOLOLOL. The intake Resonator is just to cancel intake noises. or shall we call it the WAH noise when you floor the accelerator.

LOL,

Damn thread hi-jackers....

[BigBlueSVX]

just a quick question longass, not trying to get too off topic but wouldn't the main cat provide enough of an expansion chamber? Or is there no increase in volume at the cat? And what if you put in an aftermarket cat, assuming its a bit bigger, think that would work? I'm trying to think of ideas for a better flowing and more aggresive sounding exhaust, and removing the two primary cats, replacing the main cat with a high flow version, maybe removing the resonator, and replacing the muffler sounds like a good idea to me.

[longassname]

Originally posted by BigBlueSVX
just a quick question longass, not trying to get too off topic but wouldn't the main cat provide enough of an expansion chamber? Or is there no increase in volume at the cat? And what if you put in an aftermarket cat, assuming its a bit bigger, think that would work? I'm trying to think of ideas for a better flowing and more aggresive sounding exhaust, and removing the two primary cats, replacing the main cat with a high flow version, maybe removing the resonator, and replacing the muffler sounds like a good idea to me.

Removing the primary cats certainly will improve flow and greatly reduce exhaust temperature at the manifold. The catalytics do not provide an expansion vollume the increased width is to make up for the vollume taken up by the honeycomb material. High flow resonators such as magnaflows are both cheap and are not restrictive at all. Again I really don't want to get into the whole exhaust debate again especially not in this thread but a high flow resonator is the safest bet for performance performance. The debate is still open as to whether a dual inlet high flow cat or a performance y pipe and single entrance high flow cat is the best. Either should be good.

[SVXRide]

Dyno plots, we want dyno plots!!
-Bill
p.s. (I realize time=money on the dyno...any chance you could "play" a little with the exhaust system to answer all of the on-going questions about what removing certain pieces will/won't do?)

[longassname]

Originally posted by SVXRide
Dyno plots, we want dyno plots!!
-Bill
p.s. (I realize time=money on the dyno...any chance you could "play" a little with the exhaust system to answer all of the on-going questions about what removing certain pieces will/won't do?)

No chance at all. The dyno I run on to make the chips isn't in the same city I live in so I can't switch exhaust systems and rerun. It's also extremely expensive. You should ask the guys at the shop that sell the exhaust components on here to do it.

[SVXRide]

Originally posted by longassname


No chance at all. The dyno I run on to make the chips isn't in the same city I live in so I can't switch exhaust systems and rerun. It's also extremely expensive. You should ask the guys at the shop that sell the exhaust components on here to do it.

Michael,
Fair enough! Thought that might be your answer, just had to ask
(how often do SVXs actually find themselves on 4 wheel dynos, anyway...)
-Bill

Hey BigBlueSVX here's my combination. I've removed the primary cats added a left and right down pipe into one high flow cat converter....from there it's a single pipe going into a Hooker muffler designed for the F-Body cars (Camaro, Tran-Am) with a single pipe in and two pipe out configuration. It's kinda loud but not in the least bit restrictive....Oh yeah...No Resonator either.

[TomsSVX]

back on track, what have you been doing about some gain #'s on stage 1 and 2 just checking in with ya

[GreenMarine]

Originally posted by SVXRide



Michael,
Fair enough! Thought that might be your answer, just had to ask
(how often do SVXs actually find themselves on 4 wheel dynos, anyway...)
-Bill

He's just looking to get the chip before Reading to increase his chances at winning the Rally


NOT A CHANCE!!!

[longassname]

Ok, car is repaired. Getting ready to start the nitrous oxide install. I'll post pictures as I go along so expect some tomorrow night. For those of you planning on getting the nitrous kit you may want to go ahead and order/find the sparkplugs you will need. It's a good idea to do each thing, like spark plug swap, seperately so that if you mess something up it's easier to find. The correct spark plugs to use are NGK BKR7EIX stock number 2667. Those are the Iridium IX plugs 1 step colder than factory.

A brief explanation for the benefit of those that don't know all the wonders of the spark plug. First the spark plug is responsible for the majority of the cooling of the combustion chamber. The spark plug transfers heat to the water jackets in the cyllinder head. I higher heat rated spark plug is designed to transfer heat quicker than a lower heat rated spark plug thus running cooler. As you increas horse power you increas heat and need to run a higher heat rated = a "colder" plug. On a street car running nitrous oxide you can only run 1 step colder or the spark plug will not get hot enough to stay clean in normal driving. The one step colder plug is only enough to compesate for the extra heat of about 70 hp. For a larger shot of nitrous oxide you must do other things. In order to cool the combustion chamber enough to fully compensate for the extra heat we run a richer afr during the nitrous shot. To prevent back pressure and keep manifold temperature down we remove the primary catalytic converters.

A final critical point about spark plugs and nitrous oxide. You can not use a platinum spark plug with nitrous oxide. The platinum reacts/melts. The factory plugs for our cars are double platinum meaning they have platinum on both electrodes a big big no no for nitrous oxide.

To summarize: anyone planning on running nitrous should use the following plug NGK BKR7EIX stock number 2667

is it possible with the stage 1 to remove the torque supressor thing.. where it degrades the timing in one bank while it shifts.. just a idea

thx

Jarod

[TomsSVX]

thats really not a good idea, if you like your trans. See the torque supressor does exactly that, it kills some power from the engine so during shifts there is not such a large shock to the drivetrain. the hardware in our 4eat's will not hold up long without it.

[longassname]

Ok here some pics of the fogger nozzle install into the svx throttle boddies. You'll notice they are NOS brand nozzles not Edelbrock. Edelbrock turned out not to be as supportive as a company as the director of product development for their nitrous division was himself so we are using NOS nitrous oxide components.

You need to remove the throttle body. I'll save the detailed directions on how to do that for the real install directions. I'm just going to explain where the nozzles go for now and how you position them. After you remove the throttle body you'll want to clean it up with throttle body cleaner..not carb cleaner but throttle body cleaner for efi engines.

After you have a clean throttle body you want to drill a 1/4" hole for each fogger nozzle. Looking at the bottom of the throttle body you want to drill the holes just inside of the outerbolt holes. Drill the holes at an angle so that the drill is going straight towards the center of air inlet. It's approximately a 45 degree angle compared to the rectangle of the mounting flange.





The next step is to thread the holes with a 1/8 NPT tap. To thread a hole spray with WD40 and spray the tap with WD40 then start screwing the tap into the hole (this is done by hand). About half way through the tap will get hard to turn. At this point you want to back the tap back out and clean it by spring it with WD40 again to remove the metal. Spray the hole, which is now threaded but not to the correct size yet with WD40 again also.





Screw the tap back in and continue untill the tap can screw in all the way. This may take you 3 times. At the end it will be much harder than it was at the begining--this is normal. When it is tapped correctly the nozzle will screw in without feeling like you are messing up the threads. The nozzle should screw in all the way or close to all the way but be snug when fully screwed in.

Note the direction the nozzle points. The holes in the nozzle tip (where the nitrous and fuel come out of) must point towards the engine. You will also notice that the straight hoze fitting goes straight up and the angled hoze fitting goes towards the intake hose (away from the engine).









After dry fitting the nozzles remove them and put a very light application of plumbers teflon tape to the threads and then reinstall. Very light application or you will end up buggering your threads.