ECUTune Stage III twin screw supercharger sign up

[mikecg]

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Michael,
Three words for you......"water jet cutter"
-Bill

ssshhhhhhhh....... Let him keep going. He's on a role. Dont get him distracted which improvements to his machine shop.

[longassname]

Pictures today are of the 1st crank pulley being machined.

Extruded aluminum isn't really perfectly round or true and neither are bandsaw cuts so to start with I faced and turned the piece of stock up reasonably close to the chuck.



I then turned down the shoulder.


Then I marked out the centers for as many of the v grooves for the belts as I could do before turning the stock around.



Here you can see the v grooves for the 4 rib ac belt.



Here I had finished 4 of the 5 grooves for the 5 rib belt, turned the stock around, faced and turned the other side, and marked the remaining grooves.



Here all the grooves have been cut.


Here I've drilled a starter hole for what will eventually be where the pulley slides over the crank.


Here I've enlarged the hole with a silver and deming bit.


Here I've finished the hole to it's exact size with a small boring bar.


That's where I left off. Before I bore out the other side of the pulley I want to verify what size crank bolt I am able to get. Since we are using aluminum I want to use a longer bolt so that I can thicken up some of the walls around the groove I need to cut for the lip on the timing cover.

[TomsSVX]

Hey Mike, Just looking at that pulley I think people with a PWR radiator might have clearance issues with tha pulley. How much further foward does that protrude than stock?? I can measure it in relevence to my car and let you know if it will rub on the fans

Tom

[longassname]

It's another 5 rib belt + 1 space between belts longer = 0.810 inches longer. On the larger pulley for high boost it will be that amount longer + 1 more rib on the supercharger pulley longer = 0.810+0.140= 0.950 inches longer. I'll leave the front edge a little thicker too so figure 0.85 longer on the standard kit and 1" longer on the high boost.

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

Hey Mike, Just looking at that pulley I think people with a PWR radiator might have clearance issues with tha pulley. How much further foward does that protrude than stock?? I can measure it in relevence to my car and let you know if it will rub on the fans

Tom

[TomsSVX]

I will measure it tomorrow and let you know

Tom

[longassname]

I've got the new crank bolts ordered as well as the oddball broach and bushing set as well as the special tool to cut the deep face groove and oversized tool holder to told the special tool.

I have to take a few more days here to get caught up in my neglected master's study and then I'll be back to it and back with more pictures.

[TomsSVX]

I went out and took another look and it looks like it will clear. It is gonna be tight but shot clear the fans ok

Tom

[longassname]

Ok, the packages have come in over the past week while I've been catching up with my master's studies. My last midterm is on tuesday so I expect the next flury of work to start wednessday.

We've gotten the crank pulley bolts in. I need to get differnt washers but the bolts were important part. The bolts are longer than the factory bolts to let us thicken up the aluminum pulley.



We've also gotten in all of the fuel injectors now. There are two injectors in each box so that's 24 injectors or 4 sets pictured there. The 5th set, Mike's, is from the prototype system and are already in fuel rails.


The tools for cutting the face groove into the crank pulley came but one of the parts is wrong. They are sending the correct one. You can see in the picture how the holder is the inverse of what it should be to hold the blade section. Looking at the blade section you can probably understand why every different diameter face groove requires a special tool. The curve of the blade section (actually holds a carbide insert that really does the cutting) has match the shape of the groove that it is sliding into as it cuts it.



We also got in the keyway broach set for cutting the keyway into the crank pulley. I took a picture of the broach and bushing slid into the factory crank pulley so you can get an idea of what it is and what it does. This was another special order tool because usually a 5mm broach is a b broach and a 24mm bushing is a c bushing. A 5mm c broach is an oddball tool you have to get straight from the manufacturer.



I could make do with using the shop press to cut the keyway with broach but I didn't. We got the right equipment, a ratching arbor press with handwheel advance. Although the teeth of a keyway broach are all the same size the back of the broach gets progressively thicker from bottom to top. Using the arbor press you press the broach through the bushing and it cuts the keyway into the pulley. It doesn't reciprocate like a saw...it's a one push action.

[Earthworm]

LAN, I think you should do all your posting from now on with videos instead of pics

[cdigerlando]

Oooooo. Bag of injector clips. Still not interested in selling about 6 of those injector clips? Let me know if you are.

Thanks

Chuck D.

[longassname]

Originally Posted by cdigerlando

Oooooo. Bag of injector clips. Still not interested in selling about 6 of those injector clips? Let me know if you are.

Thanks

Chuck D.

I can get them for you but they are rediculously expensive. They cost me $12 each plus shipping.

[cdigerlando]

Originally Posted by longassname

I can get them for you but they are rediculously expensive. They cost me $12 each plus shipping.

Yes they are quite expensive, but much cheaper than the option of getting the entire wiring harness. I'll pm you when I'm ready to purchace. I sure do appreciate the help. Keep up the good work on your project. Its fun to check in on from time to time. Modifying these cars if very challenging!

[longassname]

I started back to work today. I cut and welded in the sides of the passenger side sections for all of the manifolds

[longassname]

We got the correct toolholder now to complete the face grooving set for the crank pulley. Tomorrow I'll be buying materials for the bypass valve section of the throttle body adapters and belt tensioners. Then moving on to welding another bench for some new equipment and then if time permits welding the discharge flanges connecting the manifold halves. With that finished we're ready to move on with machining the pulleys and bypass valves.

[SVXRide]

Just too many toys!
-Bill
p.s. have you thought about setting up a rig to do your own line of pulleys and crank dampers (stock and underdriven)? Seems to me all you need is a good local plating shop