What have you done to your SVX (or other Subaru) today? - Page 156

gwynethh · #**2326** 05-08-2014, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gwynethh

Not a great day replacing the OEM flasher to an LED capable one.

1. For the life of us we could not get the mounting screw removed to drop out the original flasher
2. After realizing the plug had a latching finger finally was able to remove the plug from the original flasher.
3. Installed the recommended CF-14 flasher and NO FLASHING! crapola. Used this info to buy the flasher. http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...8&postcount=25. Some critical photos are now missing in that post.
4. Further research noted success with the Tridon EP-34. Found this post
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...5&postcount=23
5. We will try the EP34 tomorrow after picking one up at Advance Auto (yes we could have made pin out swapping jumpers but 12$ seemed worth.
it to get rid of a couple of more wires.)

Attached are some pin out photos for anyone who may be interested. Note the location of the "B" and "E" pins. The CF-14 and EP-34 are opposite each other. The CF-13 one may also work if anyone wants to try it.

The EP-34 did the trick. Flashes a bit faster than the oem original but that is very minor. I have attached a photo of the CF-14 that DIDN'T work for the groups info. Now gotta get back under the dash and zip tie it in place.

gwynethh · #**2327** 05-08-2014, 12:30 PM

Working on fitting an 03 black Impreza (not WRX) front passenger seat. Just enlarging/moving the front mounting holes did not work. The trial fit was about 2" higher than the original SVX seat. Re-removed the rails and have removed the rail front mounts/pedestals and that should lower the front by at least an inch and a half. The rear outboard mounting point was trimmed and re-bent to also lower the rear. Original Impreza pedestals were attached by a rivet and two spot welds. A sharp 1/4" drill bit will do a good job getting these off. A bit of steel flat bar can then formed to act mounting ears. They will need to be welded to the rails. (Still have to find a welding shop). The rear inboard mount is a bigger issue. It is attached to the rail by a much bigger rivet, at least two spot welds, a 1-2" long seam weld and a "puddle" weld. The rivet and spot welds were drilled out, the seam weld was cut with a fresh bladed hack saw and the "puddle" weld was ground out by our antique bench grinder. Finally got it off. I will have to see what I can come up this to replace this more serious mounting point later this week.

redlightningsvx · #**2328** 05-08-2014, 12:39 PM

I have 02 legacy sedan seats in mine and the holes line up with minor enlarging of the front holes.They seats sits about an inch or so higher.

Conn SVX · #**2329** 05-08-2014, 12:39 PM

That inch would not work with these short legs. I have to pop
The tilt wheel up to get on and out now. Can't wait for pictures

Gamesy · #**2330** 05-09-2014, 10:14 PM

replaced the relay for my hella horns. was able to get the same style relay at napa.

gwynethh · #**2331** 05-10-2014, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gwynethh

Working on fitting an 03 black Impreza (not WRX) front passenger seat. Just enlarging/moving the front mounting holes did not work. The trial fit was about 2" higher than the original SVX seat. Re-removed the rails and have removed the rail front mounts/pedestals and that should lower the front by at least an inch and a half. The rear outboard mounting point was trimmed and re-bent to also lower the rear. Original Impreza pedestals were attached by a rivet and two spot welds. A sharp 1/4" drill bit will do a good job getting these off. A bit of steel flat bar can then formed to act mounting ears. They will need to be welded to the rails. (Still have to find a welding shop). The rear inboard mount is a bigger issue. It is attached to the rail by a much bigger rivet, at least two spot welds, a 1-2" long seam weld and a "puddle" weld. The rivet and spot welds were drilled out, the seam weld was cut with a fresh bladed hack saw and the "puddle" weld was ground out by our antique bench grinder. Finally got it off. I will have to see what I can come up this to replace this more serious mounting point later this week.

A bit of delay/problem/time for thinking on the passenger seat install. To fully lower the rear required removal of the rear outboard pedestal (again not a problem). The result would be lower except for the interference with the ABS controller box located in that area. Gotta decide if moving the controller inboard will be worth it. Problem is exacerbated a bit by the Impreza rail design of the "fingers' that lock the forward/back sliding position. Well we knew this was no drop in job. Good weather again tomorrow to allow us to decide if we want to continue trying this.

The good news is that a poster on the facebook page is further along with a newer design seat (2011 WRX) install. He has promised more info and photos as he progresses.

Conn SVX · #**2332** 05-10-2014, 11:27 AM

I heard the Forester seats fit well. Of course a lot of bending and swearing helps. I thought I heard some yelling last night was that you?

I would lover to re do mine in a softer leather. Got a price of $1,000 for all 4 seats ( front 2 and rear 2 ) has fold down split rear seat. I would do it in a blue if I did it, with a lot less stitching on the bottom.

michael · #**2333** 05-11-2014, 03:46 PM

Wash and wax today, this begins the journey of bringing this baby back to life. 1st week of ownership and I'm starting to see the potential.

Before

After - Massive scratches buffed down to nearly presentable.

Some shine to OEM painted bumpers.

Resprayed hood came back to life nicely.

Overall, not bad

The roof is totally dead, no saving that (clear coat is MIA)

Conn SVX · #**2334** 05-11-2014, 04:28 PM

I sanded mine with 1100 grit paper wet. Then again with 1,500 paper wet and last with 2,000 grit wet. Then you need to wax it at least every other month or more. Came out like this. A lot of work but worth it. It was totally white .

bwb3 · #**2335** 05-11-2014, 05:09 PM

Well, my new '94 Pearl White, perfect southern car, was not quite so perfect after all. Replaced cam cover gaskets to stop oil leaks. Found crack in radiator top cap, replaced radiator. Now, the previous owner, Subaru dealer replaced rear wheel bearings are humming quite loud. I am thinking, replace hubs and bearings this time? I would hope the dealer would have known to repack the grease. Ching ching, I am in the hole already. Glad I love the car and want to enjoy it for a long time.
Gene

gwynethh · #**2336** 05-12-2014, 08:05 AM

Installed the dual color (orange/white) front directional bulbs. Front blinkers already look better. Fully clear corners await my pickup this Aug in Scotland. While prepping the trunk for rear battery mod and b-Quiet sound deadening material installation noted the side maker sockets were taped in place. Ordered new sockets and red led side maker bulbs. (No more socket aging/ failure due to bulb heat I hope). Disconnected rear bulb failure indicator box (due to using LED brake and directional bulbs).

Sean486 · #**2337** 05-12-2014, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conn SVX

I sanded mine with 1100 grit paper wet. Then again with 1,500 paper wet and last with 2,000 grit wet. Then you need to wax it at least every other month or more. Came out like this. A lot of work but worth it. It was totally white .

That looks pretty good, how long has it been since you did it?

Conn SVX · #**2338** 05-23-2014, 12:44 PM

So far lasted a year maybe 1 1/2 years 2 winters. You need to keep it waxed.
Just repainted my hitch and wheel hubs.

ShaneHobson · #**2339** 05-23-2014, 11:04 PM

Last night, myself and 3 friends took my SVX on a 250km road trip to see Gary Numan play live. Quite a treat, as living in New Zealand, hardly anyone interesting comes to visit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJRz3b-rkOc

ShaneHobson · #**2340** 05-25-2014, 12:06 AM

Made an adapter cable to go between the Cruise & Fogs switches on the dash and the connectors used to show check engine light codes & reset check engine light codes.

It looks ugly right now, but it will be all insulated properly and tucked away once all the other under dash work is done.

Once finished I'll be able to view CEL codes just by pressing the Fog Lights switch and then clear the codes by pressing Cruise switch.

I also resoldered MAF, cleaned MAF and swapped air filter in an attempt to solve the MAF error code.

I also bridged a connector deeper in the dash so that cruise control is always active.
Fog lights switch no longer required since glass headlights (no fogs) were fitted.

Handy having a parts car, as I was able to cut a connector out of the main loom that plugs into the Cruise & Fogs connector, saved on having to cut into that cable/connector. Nice and easy to reverse the mod if needed.