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  #136  
Old 03-03-2008, 06:13 PM
tubbstcg tubbstcg is offline
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sounds interesting....
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  #137  
Old 03-03-2008, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
Another small teaser then.

I *might* be contracted to fully develop an EG33 for a top level driver in a yet unnamed US motorsport. We're thinking totally outside the box, but it might raise a few eyebrows and most likely will cause the rulesmakers to have to rewrite those rules, as I personally think it will be a dominant car/driver combination.

But we'll just have to see how it pans out during the planning stages.
Sounds like you will be in for some serious fun

Tom
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  #138  
Old 03-03-2008, 08:06 PM
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Can you say whether it will be NA or not?
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  #139  
Old 03-04-2008, 07:47 AM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
Teeny update.

Jack got in his high pressure radiator cap. He did a test to the car's cooling system, it held at 24 psi, no problem. He then tested the new cap, it held at 23 psi for 1 hour, no loss of pressure. He tested the old cap that was on the car, it started to bleed pressure at 12-13 psi, and went downhill from there. All pressure gone within 5 minutes.

So it appears the overheating culprit may have been nothing more than a bad radiator cap. Here's hoping....

Bob
Yet another chase for something as simple as loosing pressure through a cap. It's always something like this. I was having similar trouble with my WRX. Simple matter of tightening all of my hoses Glad this worked for you. Let us know how you make out during your next event. This is an awesome project.
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  #140  
Old 03-04-2008, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sicksubie View Post
Can you say whether it will be NA or not?
NA all the way. My target numbers are about 140 hp higher @ the wheels, but with a superior torque spread.

Knowing that Frank Aragona makes 475 +/- crank hp from his carbureted drag-race EG33, I think this is feasible with ITB's and EFI.

Bob
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  #141  
Old 03-04-2008, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdigerlando View Post
Yet another chase for something as simple as loosing pressure through a cap. It's always something like this. I was having similar trouble with my WRX. Simple matter of tightening all of my hoses Glad this worked for you. Let us know how you make out during your next event. This is an awesome project.
Sometimes it is the simple things. You can literally try to reinvent the wheel to circumvent a problem, but in truth simple maintenance is often overlooked!

Bob
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  #142  
Old 03-22-2008, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
It's a KRC aftermarket pump. Commonly used in circle track cars. Funny thing is, it looks like the typical OEM Japanese PS pumps out there. Almost a direct fit. His is the steel version, an aluminum one weighs half as much but costs more. The Subaru pulley was apparently a direct fit. The new reservoir has greater capacity, and the return lines are now -10AN. Foamed-up, overheated fluid does not return easily, so a larger return line is needed to avoid stalling the pump due to cavitated fluid not returning. The cooler helps a lot as well.

The quickener is a Howe 'Stealth' 2:1 quickener. It's fitted within the stock steering column (welding required). Most of the rally guys have been doing this for years.

Bob
Bob,
Which part number KRC pump? There appears to be three different part number.
Thanks.
-Bill
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  #143  
Old 03-23-2008, 12:51 AM
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Bob have you looked at the SVX manual on the cooling system. The reason I ask is I purchased a second hand SVX that had a Craig Electric water pump and the thermstate had been removed as well as the fins on the standard pump. I noticed the car ran hot even though the car temp said it was okay. The second clue there was a problem was that the heater did not work.
Looking at the SVX book you can see the cooling is close looped with water going around in a circle independent of the radiator till it heats up. Witht he electric water pump the water went in reverse on one part of the plumbing at ment the engine didn't get any cooling.
In an attempt not to make this a long thread you need to block off the return pipes going from the engine to the water pump and don't run a thermostate. If you want I can explain this further if you are interested.
Tony
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  #144  
Old 03-23-2008, 03:50 AM
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The page from the manal on cooling
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Cooling page.jpg (551.1 KB, 239 views)
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1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX.
1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car.
1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation.
1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track.
1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine.
1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough.
Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR.
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  #145  
Old 03-23-2008, 09:41 AM
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no offense.....But unless you have a power adder, these efficencies are not scientifically possible
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  #146  
Old 03-23-2008, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXRide View Post
Bob,
Which part number KRC pump? There appears to be three different part number.
Thanks.
-Bill
I will have to ask Jack which one it is.

Bob
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  #147  
Old 03-23-2008, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Phast SVX View Post
no offense.....But unless you have a power adder, these efficencies are not scientifically possible
Phil,
Which ones are you talking about?
-Bill
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  #148  
Old 03-23-2008, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Phast SVX View Post
no offense.....But unless you have a power adder, these efficencies are not scientifically possible
No offense taken. But why do you deem them 'not scientifically possible'? We're not building street engines here, we're talking about developing an engine for racing. In fact we're still only at about 110 hp per litre, which is nothing particularly outrageous for a fairly modern twin-cam 4-valve design engine without emissions concerns. Heck, I've made a 40-year old non-crossflow single cam 2-valve per cylinder engine put out 107 hp per litre for racing use...now that was a challenge!
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  #149  
Old 03-23-2008, 08:28 PM
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Thanks to Desertrunner for letting me know about this thread.

I've checked the NASIOC thread too.

Bob...I've got exactly the same specs as you...STi valves (not oversized though), compression, porting, stand alone ECU.

Interestingly I only got 165hp. To this day I've been confused by that, as mathematically, we should have been up where you were.

Mine also overheated, but I initially have put that down to airflow through the engine bay due to the sump guard potentially blocking off the air. Perhaps that's not true...might need to spend some mroe time looking at that.

I'm interested to know about your static timing. Did you set it up using the factory positions? Given the grinding of your heads, you'd realise, like we did, that the timing on the right hand head becomes more critical due to it changing as the belt goes longer.

Can you share any of the static timing events? ie, Inlet 0.050" open and closed at what crank degrees? Ditto the exhaust?

Thanks,
Matt
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  #150  
Old 03-24-2008, 02:42 PM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Interestingly I only got 165hp.
What are you using for fuel injectors? Intake? Exhaust? Transmission

Bob, are you tuned using race fuel?

Also Bob is using a 5 speed, which has a lot less drive train loss.

The stock injectors get maxed out right away.
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