What have you done to your SVX (or other Subaru) today?

[Mike621]

Originally Posted by SVX_MY_BABY

Replaced the O-ring on my power steering reservoir. Had the car up on a hoist and couldn't find any other PS leaks after washing down the lines.

I did discover a wet connection where the transmission fluid feeds into the radiator so tightened the hose clamp.

Also discovered that my head gaskets are leaking.

Peter, I am sorry to hear about your head gaskets.

[Noriyasu]

Originally Posted by Mike621

Peter, I am sorry to hear about your head gaskets.

Head gasket problems are a serious problem. However, it may still be possible to repair it.

Oil leaking from the head cover is not that serious. I hope it's a typo, but...

[SVX_MY_BABY]

Originally Posted by Noriyasu

Head gasket problems are a serious problem. However, it may still be possible to repair it.

Oil leaking from the head cover is not that serious. I hope it's a typo, but...

I'm not a mechanic. What is the difference between a leak from the head cover and a head gasket?

[Blacky]

Originally Posted by SVX_MY_BABY

I'm not a mechanic. What is the difference between a leak from the head cover and a head gasket?

I think he means valve cover gasket.

[Noriyasu]

Originally Posted by Blacky

I think he means valve cover gasket.

Yes, Also called valve cover or tappet cover. Since the cylinders of BOXER engines are arranged horizontally, oil tends to leak from the cover. Gaskets are made of a silicone rubber-like material that gradually hardens and eventually loses its elasticity to seal the oil.

This is webpage that someone is replacing the cover gasket.

https://cartune.me/notes/1UU69t1PhF


The head gasket, on the other hand, is located between the cylinder block and cylinder head. This gasket is very thin and seals in compressed air, coolant, and oil. Head gasket damage usually occurs when the combustion gases in the cylinder enter the oil and coolant passages. It will overheat or the coolant and oil will mix and destroy the engine.
There are rare cases where only oil leaks to the outside, but since combustion gas has the highest pressure, it is the most common source of leakage, followed by coolant leaks.

I think what you're probably talking about is oil leaking from the tappet cover, valve cover, or rocker cover gasket.

In that case, replace the gasket with a new one, or even if you can't get a new one, clean it thoroughly and seal it with a liquid gasket and it should stop leaking. Oil line pressure shouldn't be high unless your engine has blow-by problems.

[Mike621]

Originally Posted by Mike621

Got hit with the dreaded 'click click start'. My car has no interrupt relay that I can find. No alarm. Started has tested good on the bench at a starter rebuild shop. This issue surfaced after I removed some aftermarket alarm wiring. Will have to dig further. Tempted to point the parts cannon at the car and order a new switch, though I feel the problem could be elsewhere.

Went back and forth with the heater shop some more. Hopefully the heater core will be ready soon.

Wheels arrive this week.

Working on my slow power windows tonight hopefully, so I can start reassembling the interior.

Greased the rear window tracked and cleaned the window guides with a toothbrush. No more sand on my felts. The car has low mileage so no need to change the felts in the rear, at least. I'll get to the door windows, soon.

Solve the click click start. Dirty contacts. No additional parts required.

Picked up my heater core from the radiator shop.

Installed the heater core and started my SVX for the first time in 5 months. It runs great and is very happy with its new belts, hoses, cooling and timing services.

Installed the new to me STi wheels and drove it down the street.

Tonight, I'll put a little more of the car back together.

Edit: I am aware the wiring is routed incorrectly on the door lock module/dash beam. I corrected that after I took the photo.

[Noriyasu]

Originally Posted by Mike621

Greased the rear window tracked and cleaned the window guides with a toothbrush. No more sand on my felts. The car has low mileage so no need to change the felts in the rear, at least. I'll get to the door windows, soon.

Solve the click click start. Dirty contacts. No additional parts required.

Picked up my heater core from the radiator shop.

Installed the heater core and started my SVX for the first time in 5 months. It runs great and is very happy with its new belts, hoses, cooling and timing services.

Installed the new to me STi wheels and drove it down the street.

Tonight, I'll put a little more of the car back together.

Edit: I am aware the wiring is routed incorrectly on the door lock module/dash beam. I corrected that after I took the photo.

I also have cleaned the parts window guides when I removed door trims. These are discontinued. I think I removed it, washed it with detergent and hot water, and blew out the fine sand with an air gun.

I think toothbrushes are a good idea. I couldn't think of it.

[Noriyasu]

Today I ordered crank metal that is 0.03mm undersized for optimal clearance.

While I was waiting for that, I painted the head cover (cam cover).

I don't know how to say it in English, but when paint is heated, it shrinks and forms a unique pattern.

[SVX_MY_BABY]

Originally Posted by Noriyasu

While I was waiting for that, I painted the head cover (cam cover).

I don't know how to say it in English, but when paint is heated, it shrinks and forms a unique pattern.

The term is "crazed"

"crazed adjective (LINES)
with many small, thin cracks (= very narrow spaces) or lines all over the surface:
The ancient vase is still in one piece but finely crazed all over.
Crazed glass is evidence of rapid, intense heating, proof that an accelerant was used to start the fire."

[SVX_MY_BABY]

Originally Posted by Noriyasu

I think what you're probably talking about is oil leaking from the tappet cover, valve cover, or rocker cover gasket.

In that case, replace the gasket with a new one, or even if you can't get a new one, clean it thoroughly and seal it with a liquid gasket and it should stop leaking. Oil line pressure shouldn't be high unless your engine has blow-by problems.

I spoke to the mechanic who looked at the car. He was fairly confident that it's the cover gaskets. I'm monitoring all the various fluid levels fluid levels.

How big of a deal is it to fix these? I assume it means pulling the engine, but I'm not sure and I neglected to ask the mechanic.

[Noriyasu]

Originally Posted by SVX_MY_BABY

I spoke to the mechanic who looked at the car. He was fairly confident that it's the cover gaskets. I'm monitoring all the various fluid levels fluid levels.

How big of a deal is it to fix these? I assume it means pulling the engine, but I'm not sure and I neglected to ask the mechanic.

If leak is from a cover gasket, the engine usually doesn't need to be removed from the car.

If it is on the right side, you will need to remove the air cleaner case. If it's on the left side, you'll need to remove the battery.

You also will need to remove the EGR hose on the top of cover and ignition coil. I don't remember if I removed the plug or not. Care must be taken not to damage the ignition coil wiring.

The gap between the engine bay and the engine is very narrow, so this may be a difficult task for Americans with large hands. Especially the area around No. 6 cylinder on the left side has few space.

When you remove the front left tire, there is a hole in the frame to access the No. 6 plug, which is covered with a rubber cap. This hole may be useful. This hole is normally used when replacing the plug.

[Noriyasu]

Today I assembled engine block with new piston rings and undersized crank metal. Unfortunately, new pistons are discontinued, so I will reuse them.

Oil clearance is at the lower limit of 25 microns. It might be a little cramped.

I forgot to order an O-ring for the oil pump, so that's all for today's work.

[Mike621]

Last week, I assembled the rear interior and rear seats. Dash and console are still out. I also started affixing the wiring and modules to the dash beam.

I drove the SVX, but the toe is out of spec so did not go far.

Today, I replaced the AC o rings at the junction between the engine bay lines and the AC evaporator. I used generic AC O rings from a kit on these connections and lubricated with a dot of PAG oil before connecting. I had these junctions disconnected for the heater core project.

I intended to resolve my toe-out condition and continue with my dashboard project, today, but I ran out of time. Will get to it soon.

[Noriyasu]

Today I almost finished assembling the EN07X spare engine with supercharger.

I'm planning to build an engine stand to swap engines.
I need a stand that can hold it stably in this condition.

Anyway, it's settled down

[Mike621]

Originally Posted by Noriyasu

Today I almost finished assembling the EN07X spare engine with supercharger.

I'm planning to build an engine stand to swap engines.
I need a stand that can hold it stably in this condition.

Anyway, it's settled down

Looks great!