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#1576
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
I have removed
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1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX. 1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC) 1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car. 1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation. 1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track. 1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine. 1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough. Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR. Last edited by Dessertrunner; 09-25-2013 at 01:49 PM. |
#1577
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
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With the EG33 in the WRX, I had full undertray and splitter and rear diffuser and also ran the vents like what you've posted. However the trick with mine was a bonnet diffuser in the centre section of the bonnet - this sucked the air out very nicely from the engine bay. With the SVX - why not professionally fix the front bar with far more area for the air to get in if airflow is in fact a major issue? I'll most likely being that and adding a bonnet diffuser with mine if air flow to the radiator proves to be an issue. |
#1578
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
Have removed
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1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX. 1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC) 1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car. 1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation. 1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track. 1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine. 1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough. Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR. Last edited by Dessertrunner; 09-26-2013 at 12:12 PM. |
#1579
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
rarely did the strings get 'pushed' or 'sucked' under the hood.
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#1580
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
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Something also like this, although this is very much over the top. Quote:
tends to want to find a low pressure and go towards it. Remember the in front of the radiator is high pressure. The engine bay pressure is generally lower and at the base of the wind shield you then have another high pressure. So given high pressure goes to low pressure, it's a bit hard for the lower engine bay pressured air to get out there. Anyway give it go, chuck some engine bay air temp sensors in and see how you go. This is my undertray btw, looking from diffuser towards the front: |
#1581
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
Wow that's a sexy aero tray. How do you have it fastened to the body?
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#1582
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
Steel structure supporting the tray - then 8 x mount points. It can hold the cars weight so it's rather strong.
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#1583
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
Holy hanna! Aluminum I assume? |
#1584
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
Yes, mostly. Steel supports where strength was required
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#1585
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
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Hello Tony, whenever I finish with the fuel tank issue that I am facing now, I will tackle the hood second, since the one that I have right now became trash with time (and old mistakes). I am planning to use whatever old stock that I have of fibermat and resin to redo it. My main idea was to do a "classy" hump on the engine to make space for the future modifications that I am planning. With the large opening in my front bumper, making a large opening at the back of the hood hump (the side of the firewall) and an undertray which redirects up at the firewall level, I think my flow will never go wrong. What do you think?
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Danny 1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon) 1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration 2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection. |
#1586
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
As Bazza stated, an opening at the base of the windshield/firewall/back of the hood, will not let air flow out of the engine bay. Depending on specific car design, there will not necessarily be full reversion/flow INTO the engine bay from this high pressure region, likely just a slow bleed into the engine bay. Even with an undertray directing the flow, it will not be able to flow out of the opening you create due to the high pressure region and will become stagnant.
But, unless the vehicle has little to no change in angle from the hood to the windshield, the airflow will not remain attached thus creating flow separation and turbulence which forms the high pressure region Bazza mentioned. Without active means, pressure can only flow with the gradient, i.e. high to low. A vent/opening in the hood needs to be further foward, in a region of smooth/laminar flow. Like the Corvette C6.R and new Stingray (note, colours in the flow-line picture correspond to temperature NOT pressure) This CFD plot shows the pressures across the vent and windshield (red/yellow = high pressure, blues = low pressure). cheers -Evan Last edited by neverLift; 08-15-2013 at 02:29 PM. |
#1587
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
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Danny 1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon) 1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration 2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection. |
#1588
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
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Only a car with a design like this DeLorean concept would not have that high pressure region (though there would still be a disruption from the wipers and hood edge, even with the kick up on the rear hood edge) Obviously exploring the SVX case in detail would yield a better idea of airflow around the view, but you can't escape from the flow separation that occurs. Airflow doesn't like to change direction quickly. We can see in the flowlines below, there isn't a massive gap below where the airflow changes direction, but it still exists (its just not as bad as a 90* Jeep/Model T windshield). The shrouding of the wipers in the hood and heavy windshield rake is part of what gives the SVX its low cD. The gap between the hood and windshield where the cowl is and wipers reside is also intentional, to increase and make use of the high pressure region. Most vehicles have their fresh air intake located there, using the high pressure region to force it into the cabin when the vent flap is open. cheers -Evan |
#1589
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
Gotcha Evan. What if I fab a hood hump that corrects the airflow via the windshield. It should not be necessary a Deloran prototype design, but at least the flow just skews a little bit up. If you all can see, the SVX hood is designed with recessed lines as opposed to lets say... a BMW 5 series.
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Danny 1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon) 1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration 2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection. |
#1590
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Re: SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again"
A hump to soften the transition between the hood and windshield? I could see it definitely decreasing the size/effect of the high pressure region, perhaps to the point that you could draw airflow out of the engine bay. But this would be required trial and error/testing to get right. And it still would not be as effective as a design similar to the Corvette, partially due to the hood/windshield interaction (though as you have said this could be minimized), but moreso that the engine itself disrupts airflow through the engine bay. Ducting the air from the radiator directly out is the most efficient set up, though of course this may not be the best compromise for a street car dealing with rain/snow etc.
cheers -Evan |
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