Crank Pulley Separated

tiv0 · #1 08-04-2012, 07:25 PM

My parents were down here in AZ visiting this last week, and they drove my SVX a couple days ago. When I came home from school, I went to move my car into the garage and noticed I had no power steering and a few of my dash lights were illuminated. I opened the hood and both accessory belts were in pieces. So I went out and bought new belts and when I went to install them today, I noticed the crank pulley started separating:

Subaruparts.com lists the crank pulley for $142.52 (part #: 12305AA141) but after some reading on this forum I found that Dayle with Motorsports Warehouse offers a one-piece crank pulley for $140 (and he is in Tucson, which I am close enough to drive to, so I could avoid shipping costs). http://svx-motorsport-accessories.st...svxlicrpu.html

Since the prices are essentially identical, it seems to me I would be better off going with the single piece pulley so as to avoid it potentially separating again. Has anyone gone this route, and if so, do you have any input?

Thanks

92 SVX · #2 08-04-2012, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tiv0

My parents were down here in AZ visiting this last week, and they drove my SVX a couple days ago. When I came home from school, I went to move my car into the garage and noticed I had no power steering and a few of my dash lights were illuminated. I opened the hood and both accessory belts were in pieces. So I went out and bought new belts and when I went to install them today, I noticed the crank pulley started separating:

Subaruparts.com lists the crank pulley for $142.52 (part #: 12305AA141) but after some reading on this forum I found that Dayle with Motorsports Warehouse offers a one-piece crank pulley for $140 (and he is in Tucson, which I am close enough to drive to, so I could avoid shipping costs). http://svx-motorsport-accessories.st...svxlicrpu.html

Since the prices are essentially identical, it seems to me I would be better off going with the single piece pulley so as to avoid it potentially separating again. Has anyone gone this route, and if so, do you have any input?

Thanks

one piece light weight pulley is the better option, but not to step on motor sport, but check ebay they usually have cheaper options, and I believe any wrx or sti and probably legacy pulley will work.

Darren · #3 08-05-2012, 07:37 AM

I replaced mine from a legacy with a EJ25 engine, it's slightly heavier than stock.
I was advised by a very well respected company near me who build Subaru motorsport engines for track and rallying all EJ20, 22, 25 pulleys will fit no problem. They did however say to avoid lightweight under gear type pulleys as they wreck the pumps and alternator with the higher RPM's.

I wouldn't waste the money on a new one, you can buy 2 or 3 used ones for the price of a new one and I have heard the tracks on some of the cheaper one peice ones wreck the belts quite quickly.

If you can't get the bolt undone get a long breaker bar with the socket on the crack bolt and wedge it horizontal across the driverside (I presume yours is left hand drive) in front of the battery and very quickly flick the starter (you can isolate the ignition if you want but I've never known or had an engine start doing it), it may take 2 or 3 goes to loosen it. There is a how too somewhere on here about locking out the transmission and torque setting for tightening up the bolt after and adjusting pulleys if your not sure.

immortal_suby · #4 08-05-2012, 08:29 AM

If time isn't a factor head to your regional forum on nasioc.com and post up a wanted for a used pulley. You can usually get them for under $50 from someone who went with a one piece. When you get it installed just paint mark it on both sides of the dampener and you'll be able to detect any slippage.

tiv0 · #5 08-05-2012, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darren

If you can't get the bolt undone get a long breaker bar with the socket on the crack bolt and wedge it horizontal across the driverside (I presume yours is left hand drive) in front of the battery and very quickly flick the starter (you can isolate the ignition if you want but I've never known or had an engine start doing it), it may take 2 or 3 goes to loosen it. There is a how too somewhere on here about locking out the transmission and torque setting for tightening up the bolt after and adjusting pulleys if your not sure.

I'm not very sure I want to try breaking it loose with the starter idea...is there no other solution to breaking that nut loose? Obviously the crankshaft is just rotating when I turn the nut.

I'll probably run out and grab some PB blaster and a strap wrench.

oab_au · #6 08-05-2012, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tiv0

I'm not very sure I want to try breaking it loose with the starter idea...is there no other solution to breaking that nut loose? Obviously the crankshaft is just rotating when I turn the nut.

I'll probably run out and grab some PB blaster and a strap wrench.

If it has seperated, the strap wrench won't hold it.
I'd do the starter way.

Harvey.

92 SVX · #7 08-05-2012, 10:59 PM

The other way is to put a screw drive a heavy duty one or bar in the slot at the rear of the motor where out connects to the Trans to stop the crank from moving then a large breaker bar to the nut on the pulley

IppoJ · #8 08-10-2012, 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tiv0

My parents were down here in AZ visiting this last week, and they drove my SVX a couple days ago. When I came home from school, I went to move my car into the garage and noticed I had no power steering and a few of my dash lights were illuminated. I opened the hood and both accessory belts were in pieces.

I didn't do it!

tiv0 · #9 08-10-2012, 12:32 PM

Just want to verify this, I posted a WTB thread on nasioc and found a guy in my area with a pulley available. I noted that the pulley can be from any ej20, 22, or 25 engine and got a response fairly quickly. The seller tells me this is from a wrx/sti and I want to make sure it will fit properly before I buy it. Can anyone help me out? I know it doesn't look identical to our stock one, but I didn't expect that it would.

1986nate · #10 08-10-2012, 12:58 PM

pictures aren't showing up for me.
But, as long as it's not an underdriven crank pulley, it'll work.

tiv0 · #11 08-10-2012, 01:25 PM

Ok.

Yeah I didn't know if the pictures were going to work. First time attempting to post pictures using my iPhone browser.

92 SVX · #12 08-10-2012, 02:17 PM

I have a stock 92 pulley i took it off because i got a great deal on a one piece aluminum one I'll post a pic

Austin · #13 08-20-2012, 12:33 PM

One of the first things that needed to be replaced on my SVX was the separating crank pulley. Huck came down with his family to go to Disney World and while he was here, he helped me out. Scratch that - he was going to show me how to do my T-belt (since I was brand new to the SVX world), and ended up just doing the whole job. Too nice of a guy! While doing it though he noticed the pulley was separating (which explained an annoying stumbling I had been having). So we went to a junkyard and pulled one off of a Legacy. Exact fit. Period.

I recommend doing that. It's cheap, it fits perfectly, and no problems since. Hopefully you've got one in a junkyard nearby.

I don't recall which MY Leg it came off of, but these guys will be able to spell that out I'm sure. But it was 100% the same pulley.

EDIT: I'm a moron - didn't see that you had already gotten yours. Nevermind. (for anyone else running into this situation though, the EJ legacy thing works just fine.)