rear wheel bearings... do it myself?

intellibomb · #1 10-08-2008, 04:44 PM

hi everyone in cyberspace

so here is my dillemma:
my driver rear wheel bearing is toast. i was driving and all the sudden a horrific grinding and then then it sort of popped, and then it was a steady, lower pitched squeally grind.

i was like 100 miles from home at this point, and i just kept on trucking cuz i had no choice.

i get home (slowly but surely) and i examine the wheel in question and there is metal shavings all over the rim and the wheel (when i did the ol' tire kick) looked as if it were about to fall off

.

my question is:
can i just replace the entire hub assembly off of my parts car?
or, conversely, would i be better off just replacing the wheel bearing on the working car with a new piece (cost and time wise)?

also, do the new bearings need to be packed with grease? i have heard conflicting reports: my local dealer says that "the bearings are sealed and come with lubricant from the manufacturer", but another mechanic and reports on this site have told me they must be packed with grease or else they will just fail again.

i was quote $95 for the bearing, $14 for the seal, and $300 for the labor at the dealer.
the private mechanic said $280 for the labor, plus $50 for a machine shop to pack the bearings....

what should i do? i would much prefer to just replace the entire hub if possible and practical (much cheaper and i can do it myself).

thank you so much for any input you all might have on my plight

thanks
JJ

Hocrest · #2 10-08-2008, 05:05 PM

Swap the hub off of the parts car.

Have fun with the lateral link bolt. And be sure when re-assembling not to use a impact wrench on it and to torque it properly.

intellibomb · #3 10-08-2008, 05:13 PM

thank you.

i thought that would be the cheapest easiest and fastest way to replace it, i figured i should consult the pros first.
thanks.

the lateral link bolt....... thats #18 below, correct?
you suggest i just use a regular wrench and not an air impact gun for that?

thanks

Hocrest · #4 10-08-2008, 05:19 PM

For re-assembly, no, no impact gun. If you overtighten at all it will distort the knuckle and start to repeatedly eat wheel bearing.

And I'm not sure what hills you're up in? But if there is any rust, I'd suggest soaking that bolt and the bushings it goes through with PB Blaster (or your favorite penetrating oil) for a few days before you work on it.

intellibomb · #5 10-08-2008, 05:21 PM

not really too far up in the hills

its auburn, ca.... the foothills of the sierra nevada...

good idea about the pb blaster tho, thanks a million for the insight.

svxstarship · #6 10-09-2008, 06:29 PM

Ah the lateral link bolt..sweet memories of eastern rust on my old 92.
Disconnect the wire for the abs sensor on the hub from under the rear seat and remove the hub with the sensor still in the hub. Then you can work on removing it if necessary. Easy to damage abs sensor and they are not cheap.

Hondasucks · #7 10-09-2008, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by intellibomb

not really too far up in the hills

its auburn, ca.... the foothills of the sierra nevada...

good idea about the pb blaster tho, thanks a million for the insight.

I know right where that is! I lived there from 87-95... As for the bearing, my recommendation would be to swap it out with the parts car knuckle, but when that bearing goes out, have the dealer replace it. The bearing is a press fit, you won't get it out without a press. (As for the sealed & lubricated part, a lot of the newer bearing assemblies are a permanently lubricated, sealed unit, but I do not know if the SVX bearing is that way or not, but I DO know that the SVX rear bearings are the same as the 04-07 STi. (Might be 08 too but not sure..)