PS pump or something else (or more?)

[Dubya-r-ex]

On my way home last night I had a bunch of lights pop up on the dash. They were the battery, stop light, the brake light, and the ABS light. I'm a bit confused as to what this could be. No engine light and the braking seems completely fine. The PS is non existent right now which I noticed when I had to take my first turn after that long straight where the lights came on. I have since driven the car twice with the same results. Of course, my car is a 95 and I'm not witty enough to jump the pins being that noone has an OBDI scanner in the area.

HELP!!! Is is just the PS pump and did it really cause all these other lights to come on? Thanks in advance guys.

[SoCal LS-L]

Originally Posted by Dubya-r-ex

On my way home last night I had a bunch of lights pop up on the dash. They were the battery, stop light, the brake light, and the ABS light. I'm a bit confused as to what this could be. No engine light and the braking seems completely fine. The PS is non existent right now which I noticed when I had to take my first turn after that long straight where the lights came on. I have since driven the car twice with the same results. Of course, my car is a 95 and I'm not witty enough to jump the pins being that noone has an OBDI scanner in the area.

HELP!!! Is is just the PS pump and did it really cause all these other lights to come on? Thanks in advance guys.

Sounds like your crankshaft pulley has come apart. Start the engine and observe the operation of the belts, see if they are driven by the pulley, and if the inner and outer part of the crank pulley have seperated.

[SomethingElse]

somethingelse and more.

do you see 2 belts when you pop the hood?
any noises come with these problems?

[Dubya-r-ex]

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

Sounds like your crankshaft pulley has come apart. Start the engine and observe the operation of the belts, see if they are driven by the pulley, and if the inner and outer part of the crank pulley have seperated.

Originally Posted by SomethingElse

somethingelse and more.

do you see 2 belts when you pop the hood?
any noises come with these problems?

Yea, by the time that you guys had replied I had already figured it out. I hadn't given myself the time to yet dig into what it was and posted probably before I should have. Anyways, it was the belt. It had completely shredded and was sitting in the bottom of the tray. All is well. I ended up finishing up my brake job and replaced the passenger caliper which had a sticking piston. I also patched the crack on the top of the radiator that I had and I'm praying that it holds otherwise that will be my next project.

[Blacky]

The rad patch won't hold, so start planning. I tried on mine 3 times. I bought one last year for $130.00 on Ebay, works great so far.

[MadMaxSvx]

If your crack on the radiator is not too large, you can use Alumaseal, i tried it on both my Kawasaki KLR bike and my 1972 Chevrolet Chevy (Nova in USA) and the thing worked amazingly well, i could´nt believe this product actually worked, because another product that i tried in my Accord, (some kind of powder like tiny metal bits) actually clogged the system and caused a big overheating, but i gave this product a try because it was my only hope, a new rad for my bike was far too expensive!
It worked after a few hours of running the engine (it took longer to seal the Chevy radiator because the leak was HUGE!. Two days in this case) And is safe for aluminum radiators as the one in the Kawa is made of it. There are two kinds of products they make, but i used the liquid one in both cases, being this a permanent repair, as i am using the Chevy as my daily driver and no more leaks in 6 months.

PS: OMG! I fogot to add the Chevy in my signature

[SoCal LS-L]

Originally Posted by MadMaxSvx

If your crack on the radiator is not too large, you can use Alumaseal, i tried it on both my Kawasaki KLR bike and my 1972 Chevrolet Chevy (Nova in USA) and the thing worked amazingly well, i could´nt believe this product actually worked, because another product that i tried in my Accord, (some kind of powder like tiny metal bits) actually clogged the system and caused a big overheating, but i gave this product a try because it was my only hope, a new rad for my bike was far too expensive!
It worked after a few hours of running the engine (it took longer to seal the Chevy radiator because the leak was HUGE!. Two days in this case) And is safe for aluminum radiators as the one in the Kawa is made of it. There are two kinds of products they make, but i used the liquid one in both cases, being this a permanent repair, as i am using the Chevy as my daily driver and no more leaks in 6 months.

Nooooooo I would humbly recommend against radiator stop-leak. That crap will stay in your system permanently unless you feel like taking apart your cooling system and flushing it out for an hour or more.

From my experience, when I used it in desperation in my SVX, it took ten minutes before it seized my waterpump, severely overheated my engine, and shredded my timing belt. The heat from the timing belt also cooked some of the timing pulleys, resulting in the dust seals popping off (one of which caught in the new belt later on, making me skip timing and having to redo the belt for the third time).

So from my own experience, cooling system sealant has worked before on my toyota trucks, BUT I wouldnt use it in the SVX, it does not like it. The best fix is replace the radiator with a used or new one to save yourself a lot of trouble.