Which side is "Bank 2" (knock sensor)?

[Brian]

The check engine light is on, and I'm getting a code for Knock Sensor (Bank 2). Is Bank 2 the driver's (left) side? That's my guess since, as I understand it, that side of the engine has the even number firing cylinders (2-4-6).

[svxcess]

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In the USA, for the six cylinder H6 engine, Bank 1 is on the passenger side, Bank 2 is the driver’s side (left side as you sit in the car)

If you are in front of your car, looking towards the windshield, then bank 2 is on your right.


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[Brian]

Thanks, John!

[wdb]

Recommendation: do them both.

[Brian]

Are both sensors identical? (e.g.: interchangeable, same part number, etc.)
How do you disconnect the white electrical connectors at the far end of the sensor assembly? Do you squeeze those little wings together?

[irox]

I recently bought a couple, but haven't changed them yet, here's some thoughts on which brand:
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=64840

I was also searching for how-to-replace tips and found this thread:
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17952

I'm planning on doing the timing belt, water pump, etc., so I'll switch out the knock sensors when the belts are off doing the "remove the engine lift bracket with the compressor still attached" trick.

Cheers,
Ian.

[SVX_MY_BABY]

Originally Posted by Brian

Are both sensors identical? (e.g.: interchangeable, same part number, etc.)
How do you disconnect the white electrical connectors at the far end of the sensor assembly? Do you squeeze those little wings together?

Yes and
Edit: Y̶e̶s̶ ̶
No. There's a tiny push-down/in lever on the grey connector that plugs into it.

[Brian]

Thanks guys! And what if one of the wings is broken off?
I was practicing on the sensor that is still good and more easily accessible (bank 1) even before my last post. Obviously I wasn’t successful since I posted the question, but in the process I broke off one of its wings.

[svxcess]

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[Brian]

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What is the air hose that snakes under the intake manifold from the Snorkus past the right/rear knock sensor, and ends with a U-shaped curve?

Mine was brittle and cracked just passed the U when I replaced my #6 coil in January. In order to find a replacement, I’m looking for its actual name and/or part number. I haven’t been able to identify it on SubaruParts.com.
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[svxcess]

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Brian,

Look at this document.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/atta...1&d=1559509115


Shows all vacuum hoses and air hises on top and underneath the manifold. Also a list of hoses with part number and description. Also has OD and ID sizes for each hose and approximate length.

Many of these are NLA but many members have replaced them with other tubing. You may have to lengthen some hoses to have a larger curve radius to avoid kinking. Pre-formed hoses don't have this problem.

Measure the diameter of the hose and look at the list. The larger auxiliary air hoses are at the top of the list.

Hope this helps.


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[Brian]

Thanks again, John! That was very helpful. I’ve now memorized it as Part # 807412152. Aux. air hose #1.

Although, as far as substitutes, I wonder if there is some kind of jointed or pleated hose that can be be formed into that shape without either a wide bend or kink.

[svxcess]

May be available from Germany for about $15.00 plus shipping (for a part which is very light)

https://sunparts24.com/EN/807412152
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Or a 180° copper fitting that you could attach straight tubing to each end.

https://www.supply.com/3-4-in-c-x-c-...mestic/p488210

Should be available from any plumbing supply or hardware store. Comes in various sizes.


Something like this may be a possibility. PVC 180° fitting for aquarium use. Tubing can slip over the barbed ends.

https://www.chillsolutions.com/produ...r-barb-fitting

Think outside the box. What do you need to do to address the particular problem area... the tight bend.

You may have been too young to have watched McGuyver in TV. This is my wife’s nickname for me.
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[Brian]

It's done! It turns out my parts car had the tube in question, and still in good shape. The night before last I replaced the knock sensor and the hose, plus the alternator. I used the squeezing-my-hand-under-the-manifold method since I had to do get used to doing that anyways in order to pull the broken stub of hose off. It became painful after a few times, but it wasn't too hard to remove or install the sensor that way, even though I had to use my left hand despite being right handed.

In the process, I broke the brittle 1/8" L-shaped vacuum hose under the front of the manifold. Eventually I scrounged some clear tubing of barely larger diameter, and painstakingly collared it over the 2 broken ends. (I did a little McGuyvering too, John.)

BTW I found out that squeezing the little white wings on the sensor's electrical connector do not disconnect it (or do anything). That's done by a tiny push-down/in lever on the grey connector that plugs into it. Additionally, I routed the wire in a slightly more accessible path.

The next day my hand was all swollen, a little less so today, but still achy.