|
It is possible that you really don't need a new caliper. To check, when you remove the pads, if the piston will retract, then you don't need a new one. If it is frozen, and you can't press it back in (I always use a large c-clamp and a block of wood, then you probably do (you could rebuild it, but it probably sin't worth it.
Replacing is not difficult. There is a bolt/pin at the bottom. Remove it. It will then swing up on a pin. You can slide it off. Then there is usually (most cars, I assume the SVX is similar but I am too lazy to get my shop manual right now) a bolt that holds the brake hose to the caliper. Remove it and tie something around the brake line to keep all your fluid from leaking all over the floor. The new caliper will attach with the same bolt through the line. Be sure to replace the washers with new ones (if there are washers) as they are also seals.
You will need to remove the bushings on which the caliper slides as they don't usually furnish new ones with the rebuilt caliper. Clean them up, re-lube them with caliper grease (or, my choice, silicone grease - the new caliper may come with some).
Now is the hard part (after it is all back together) - you have to bleed the brakes. My advice - do a "good enough" job, and take the car to your neighborhood gas station and have them flush the whole system. You should have that done every 2 years anyway. The cost is relatively minor (about $50) and you now it is done right. Doing it yourself is a pain - you need a helper and if you let the resevoir run dry, then you need to bleed the entire system. It will be the beat $50 you ever spent.
Now if the piston does retract and seems to be working ok (there are times when the brakes are worn low when the piston may be difficult to get to start retracting, but once started, will continue fairly easily. In that case, I would not replace it), then what you probably need to do is to remove the "slide bushings" and clean them and re-grease them.
|