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Don't panic - intermittment problems usually easy to fix (most of the times inexpensively - at least you know for sure there is no major mechanical damage to engine/transmission). Finding
the problem is the challenging part.
The good news is the failure to start is much easier to find than an intermittment cut-out.
The ECU codes is the obvious first step in diagnosing.
Your dealer should be able to read "current" codes, not those stored in memory. A few seconds of cranking with ECU in "dealer-check" mode should throw a current code why ECU thinks engine does not start. Another way to do it is to clear ECU memory by disconnecting battery for 15 minutes and start cranking. When you first turn ignition to start position CE light goes out. If there is a problem, ECU will light the CE after a few second of cranking and write code into memory. You can read the memory after that.
No, knock sensors should not prevent engine from initial firing - and it should not take dealer an hour to find out, they should simply know that.
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