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Old 05-01-2008, 08:42 PM
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Trevor Trevor is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YourConfused View Post
I wouldd assume it is either bad luck, or an issue with your vehicles wiring to be the culpret. It is possible to have gotten a different motor with x amount of miles on its components that just may have the same problem, but what are the oddds?
More likely wwould be an issue of your connectors, harness, ecu. Maybe someeone with wiring diagrams coold point you in the direction of how to test your carw wiring. I assuume you are experiencing the ssymptoms associated with the code you are getting.
Test the assembly on the bench if possible. The operation of the valve is quite straight forward and confirming that the required signal is present at the solenoid should not present a problem.

Refer last paragraph below:-

By-Pass Air Control Solenoid Valve
Cleaning, setting and Testing.

Description.

The By-Pass Air Control Solenoid Valve, or Idle Air Control Valve, allows the Engine Control Unit/Computer, to control an adjustable inlet of air in order to control idle speed when the throttles are shut. One obvious function is to increase the airflow when the air conditioning system imposes an extra load on the engine. The SVX has a second valve, The Bypass Air Control Valve, to supply extra air during cold starting.

The unit comprises a rotary solenoid valve, biased towards a central rest position by means of a permanent magnet. A double wound coil provides reversing open closed operation from a mean rest position, at which point the valve is half open. This arrangement provides two way variable control, dependent on the applied voltage.

Adjustment of the mean position is provide for by incorporating slotted screw holes in the housing, probably to allow the position to be set during manufacture in order to allow for anticipated tolerances.

Three electrical connections are involved. The centre pin on the connector is common to both windings and is energised positive. The remaining two connections provide for open and close operation of the valve via negative circuits.


Cleaning and Adjusting.

Cleaning is best achieved by removing the solenoid coil by undoing the two attachment screws, which pass through slotted holes so as to provide a degree of adjustment. Make a scratch mark, so that the original position can be retained after reassembly. Magnetic force will be apparent as the solenoid coil is separated from main body.

The armature which rotates in ball races, when moved by hand should rotate open closed, with virtually no resistance. The valve should be cleaned of foreign matter using a suitable solvent/lubricant so that is completely free to move.

After reassembly the valve should rest in a position, half open and half shut when set to the original mark. If there is a large discrepancy, this may indicate that the setting has been tampered with at some time and it should be reset.

Testing.

The solenoid resistance should measure 9 ohms, each side of the common connection, i.e. 18 ohms overall, a small tolerance being acceptable.

With positive to the common connection, 8 volts DC applied alternatively to the two remaining connections, should fully open and close the valve from rest. Return to the rest position should occur reliably without hesitation. In the event that 12 volts must be used, this will suffice for intermittent testing, but the extra torque available must be appreciated,

If a variable voltage source is available, continuous opening closing according to the applied voltage can be reproduced. However this more critical test and should not be a necessity.
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As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit!
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