[Aredubjay]

Colin, I had forgotten that I'd typed this out some time ago and stored it in my "Freedrive." See if any of this "drivel" helps:

Okay, again, sorry I'm late with these. According the manual for the ‘92, our "self diagnosis" mode is called "U-Check" (cute huh?). That's opposed to the "Read Memory," "D-Check" and "Clear Memory" modes used by the dealer. The manual says, and I quote:

"The U-check is a user oriented mode in which only the MPFI components necessary for start-up and drive are diagnosed. On occurrence of a fault, the warning light (Check Engine Light) is lighted to indicate to the user that the dealer's inspection is necessary. The diagnosis of other parts, which do not give significant adverse effect to start-up and drive, are excluded from this mode in order to avoid unnecessary uneasiness to be taken by the user."

I love the language, especially the last line. Anyway, the Check Engine light will flash in pulses: long and short. The long pulses (1.2 seconds in length) indicate units of ten, while the short pulses (0.2 seconds in length) indicates units of one. The flashes are separated by 0.3 seconds. So, two long flashes and two short flashes would indicate a trouble code of 22. If there is only one problem, the same code will flash continuously, separated by 1.8 seconds. If there are more than one, the codes will flash in succession, separated by 1.8 seconds. I hope this is making sense. In other words, long-long-short-short (1.8 sec) long-long-short-short . . . shows code 22 is the only problem. If the light flashes long-long-short-short (1.8 sec) long-short-short . . . then continues this pattern, then there is a code 22 and a code 12 problem. Okay, enough explanation. Here is what the trouble codes mean:

11. Crank angle sensor #1 -- No signal from crank angle sensor #1for more than three seconds after start switch is ON.
12. Starter Switch – Abnormal signal from ignition switch.
13. Cam Angle Sensor – No signal from cam sensor, but signal from crank angle sensor number one.
14. 14 - 19 indicate an inoperative fuel injector. 14 indicates injector one is inoperative, 15 is injector two, 16 is injector three . . . and so forth.
21. Water temperature sensor – abnormal signal from water temp sensor.
22. Knock sensor 1 (RH) – Abnormal voltage from knock sensor monitor circuit.
23. Air flow sensor – Abnormal voltage from air flow sensor.
24. By-pass air control solenoid valve – by pass air control solenoid valve inoperative (Abnormal signal in monitor circuit).
28. Knock sensor 2 (LH) – Abnormal voltage from knock sensor monitor circuit.
29. Crank angle sensor #2 – No signal from crank angle sensor #2, but two signals from crank angle sensor #1.
31. Throttle sensor – Abnormal voltage from throttle sensor.
32. O2 sensor #1 (RH) – O2 sensor inoperative.
33. Vehicle Speed Sensor #2 – No signal from vehicle speed sensor #2.
34. EGR Solenoid Valve – EGR solenoid valve inoperative.
35. Purge control solenoid valve – Purge control solenoid valve inoperative.
37. O2 Sensor #2 (LH) – O2 sensor 2 is inoperative.
38. Engine Torque Control – Wiring harness between ECU and TCU is in short circuit.
41. A/F Learning Control – Faulty learning control function.
45. Atmosphere Pressure Sensor – Faulty atmospheric pressure sensor inside ECU.
51. Neutral Switch – Abnormal signal from inhibitor switch.
52. Parking Switch – Abnormal signal from parking switch.
55. EGR gas temperature sensor (CAL.) – Abnormal signal from EGR gas temp sensor.
56. EGR system (CAL.) – EGR valve stuck open/closed, EGR hose disconnected or exhaust pressure control valve damaged.

And, no, I didn't leave out any numbers. That's the way the codes are listed. Hope this is of some help to all.