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Originally Posted by Trevor
Stick with it Tom,
The TPS does not directly control the solenoid as you no doubt realise, but does so via the TCU, so that you should check it carefully so as to rule it out of the equation. Refer the simple method I wrote up for the “how to” section. Measure the voltage by sticking a needle or pin through the wire as I suggest.
You may think this overkill, but this is good advice. Make notes as you go along, writing down each test or check you make. I know how confused one can become ( I always fall into this trap.) with this sort of issue and it is not easy to be sure what has and has not been checked, as the path gets long and involved. Especially when the project has to be attacked in dribs and drabs.
Your test light measurement will be spot on and has a distinct advantages as resistance in the circuit is likely to show, when it would not using a sensitive meter. Have no concern in this regard.
It is quite possible that the voltage at pin 3 does not return after closing the throttle due to the TCU “holding the instruction”, if you get my meaning. After releasing the accelerator, turn the ignition of and on again, without touching the accelerator, see if the voltage returns. If it does, I think you can assume all is as it should be and what I suggest applies. If not, you could be onto something.
The FWD drive light is another issue. I have a problem in that the manuals I have cover the non US set up, whereby the fuse locks the front and rear for AWD, rather than disconnects the rear drive, but it would seem that the solenoid control is the same. It would appear that this indicator light is directly on the FWD control circuit which could mean that this circuit became live from the fuse end, or alternatively through a back feed from the TCU. Did you by any chance have the fuse left in the holder and nearly connecting ? If nothing is untoward on that side, you must get back to suspecting the TCU.
Don’t get frustrated, get mad, put your teeth into it and try to make the challenge fun. However proceed logically and not like a bull at a gate like some !! The answer is there and you have the brains to find it.
All the very best, Trevor *<)
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A few things. When I turn the key off and back on, the voltage returns to pin 3 no problem. In the US models the fuse grounds the cicuit and by this should be feeding a constant 12.v signal to the sol. in order to keep it strictly FWD. My concern is that it is not completing this circuit somewhere down the line between the fusebox and the TCU. I have replaced the TCU with another and nothing has changed. I figured this the easiest step and I would do this first. I do have a lead comming off the white(middle) wire of the TPS to test voltage without it grounding when I do not want it to. I am really leaning toward this being an issue as the idle is sometimes a little funky. But the only disheartening thing is, once I "blip" the throttle the idle will settle to where it should be and does not change. But when I do this, it is still binding. I would really like to get in it with a Select Monitor so I can see the volatages while I am driving or testing instead of being burried under the dash and hitting the gas and brake wit my elbows
I will give you more information as I get it but for now this is all I know. There are too many things not doing what they should for it to be sol. C alone but it still very well could be so I am not ruling out that option as of yet.
Tom