Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor
Not the correct way to do it, as the relay does not isolate the ignition switch and circuit from the load imposed by the starter solenoid. The object of the exercise is to overcome voltage drop in the ignition switch circuit occurring due to a fault causing resistance in the circuit. 
The relay contacts should switch the starter solenoid load as a separate independent circuit. The existing ignition switch circuit should be disconnected from the starter solenoid and then connected to the relay coil, thus limiting the load on this circuit to no more relay current. This arrangement will hugely reduce the load on both the inhibitor and ignition switch contacts where poor contact must exist.  |
Trevor,
That is what I said! Please try to understand the words instead of always trying to impress the few faithful people that still depend on your "expertnesses".
This problem has came up before and you tried to connect it to the temperature of the car because the cooling fans would come on. not even close to what is happening. now you want to use the existing circuitt to the relay. That is what I said!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Is far more important to try to help people than to impress people. You need to send your white horse to the glue factory? Don't try to come riding to the rescue now when you couldn't work it out weeks ago when the same thing came up. It is already worked out and many people will benefit from this information.
With this system, nothing else on the car has to be changed. The alarm system works, and so does everything else. Again my car actually starts quicker than it ever did because the full voltage from the battery is applied right to both terminals on the starter,
Wake up and read the words!!!!!!!!!!!!!! When something is posted and you don't understand the words, sending a private message might be a better idea. I call it "save face"
(just trying to help you)
Your friend,
Keith