02-12-2005, 06:59 AM
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Thread Killah
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 5,835
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Quote:
Originally posted by SVXRide
1. Read the directions carefully before touching anything on the car,
2. Move the Driver's seat all the way back,
3. Move the steering wheel up as much as you can,
4. Get yourself one of those "miner's light" that you can wear around your head so you can see what you're doing once you're one your back and trying to loosen the bolts holding the ECU in place
5. Make sure the car battery is disconnected - after you move the Driver's seat back.
6. Make sure you've grounded yourself before you start working on the ECU - you don't want any stray static electricity doing a number on the electronics within the ECU.
-Bill
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And don't forget to leave the radio door open.
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Matt
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2015 BRZ Limited 6MT
92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting
92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles
19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !.
89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P.
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