Quote:
Originally Posted by STeeL25T
My setup will be single turbo, WRX 5 speed with Legacy GT 1-2 gear swap keeping the final drive. Hopefully that wont shatter like glass I can't spring for anything better than that. Do you think running it in front wheel drive mode with the fuse in would put less stress on launching?
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Not sure where you are going with this remark, in light of the fact you will be running a 5-speed. The 5-speed is a mechanical box. It will be full-time AWD. With no facility for turning it into FWD unless you break something.
The fuse trick only works for the US auto transmission because you can switch off the rear solenoid, which punts all the motive power to the front differential. Once you have a 5-speed fitted that fuse will do nada.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXRide
Given that OT and YT have both been running 8 - 12 psi with the stock pistons/rings/block for a while, I would hope that you could safely go to 15-20 with a built motor (assuming you've got a good tune, of course!)
-Bill
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Bill's comment about the state of tune is the deciding factor on what power you can produce, along with the
need [not option] to provide efficient charge cooling as you go up in the poundage.
Whipple powered EG33 charts
Have a browse through these charts if you want to assess potential numbers. This spreadsheet essentially treats the EG33 motor as a pump that develops hp based on the amount of oxygen pushed through by forced induction. To achieve these figures you would need to have your tuning right or the numbers achieved will be lower. They are net figures at the crank, not WHP. Also you will notice if you compare the charts that the figures
won't give you the desired hp without charge cooling. In the charts where charge cooling is at zero temperatures are up, often beyond safe limits. High in-cylinder temperatures mean less oxygen ingested and higher risk of pre-detonation and melting pistons. A lose-lose scenario.
Anything that has been done with an EJ 4 cylinder engine can more or less be done with the EG 33 six cylinder, which is essentially an EJ4 + 2. So in theory any builder-tuner that has done EJ engines can do the same for you with our flat six.
I'm agreeing with the thrust of the advice given to you so far. As you are putting money into an engine build there is no point in your boosting to the 8-10 lbs we know the standard engine is safe for. Most factory tuned EJ engines operate at around 1 ATM or 15 lbs, so a built engine with good charge cooling and tuning should be safe for this level. Going much beyond this you are into more risky territory, so I would suggest your engine design parameters should be to hold a safe 20 lbs, and that would probably include new liners and semi closing the deck.
Joe
BTW, before you order the pistons tomorrow, if you
really want to go for bigger numbers, should you not be doing what RallyRob did and use larger pistons for a bigger swept volume?
