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Originally Posted by 19svx94
actually the drills are simply to disapate heat, but the slots create heat and more friction causing a better stopping force, the track cars use solid rotors because they have huge 4,6, and sometimes 8 piston calipers that dont need to utilize the slots, but i guarantee my drilled and slotted rotors will last longer due to the fact that they disapate heat and dont warp like solid rotors do, the ss brake lines and brake fluid take the higher heat but you will soon be seeing either warped or cracked rotors due to the slow disapation of heat, for me and my hard street driving around town i would not use anything but drilled and slotted rotors, i resurfaced my solids and they were warped in about a 1000 miles, i have been going 11000 hard miles on the drilled and sloted rotors no problem
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Drilled rotors under abuse = CRACKs. I won't put any money on it, but I'd bet if you went out to your car RIGHT NOW, took a high resolution picture of your front rotors, there would already be spider cracks forming.
Warping is not really about the rotors "warping". What is considered "warped rotors" is actually the pad material that turns into carbide, and then cementite. Read the Stop Tech White papers....uhh here
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
When you resurfaced your solid rotors, you more than likely went below the accepted rotor thickness. This means there is just not enough metal there to disappate heat. More metal = more heat dissapation. (Yes, more surface area also means more heat dissapation, but the advantage is almost completely lost because of the reduced friction area)
Rotors aren't always more expensive than pads. Most track cars buy 2-3 sets of 30 dollar rotors. That means you get 4 rotors for the cost of 1 "super extra special" rotor. This means you basically swap out rotors and pads together. and they last longer.
The biggest problem people have when they get aggressive pads is that people don't bed them in properly, which results in more carbide/cementite build up.
Trust me, when it comes to braking, You're better off with a 30$ rotor, a 100$ pad, and new fluid. Per corner it is THE MOST COST EFFECTIVE street/track setup available.
Now saying this, back about a year and half ago, I bought slotted rotors for my SVX, and they've worked fine. I dont' think that they gave me any performance advantage over stock, and did significantly reduce pad life.
Now, you did hit on a point that is truly an advantage of drilled rotors. They do typically run cooler. However, running better pads (can withstand HIGH temps) and high BP Fluid, You still have the same braking ability at high temps as you would at lower temps, and you will not have brake fade. Plus drilled rotors make the rotors run cooler, the pads/fluid actually are the same temperature, or hotter due to less metal in the rotor.