[bazza]

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

I see a oil problem that would explain Matt and Bazza's bearing failure. Also Harvey has been arguing that the back bearings are being starved. YT point about looking into this closer is correct.

I have just reread the standard oil pump flow data and conclude Harvey is 100% right (this time,). When you check the pump specs at 5,000rpm it pumps 56Lpm but its only at 43psi keep in mind that the blow off valve is set at 85psi. That is bad news if you image that the system is call for oil but there is not enough to go around then it will go to the place of least resistance "WHICH IS NOT THE BACK OF THE ENGINE" in other words dead bearing.

I fully appricate that oil pressure over revs is not a linear relationship but you would have to rev the motor to 8,800 to blow off the pressure valve. The other point worth keeping in mind is that the friction of oil is far greater then water so pressure loss getting oil to the back bearings could be as 20psi which means the back bearing would well and truely be starving.
Tony

Just to clarify, my bearings never failed and I've never done a big end to date

I only saw the massive oil surge in the video replay and also noticed my oil pressure below what I was comfortable with so I chose to rebuild the engine, nothing worse than turning up to a track day and having something fail and ruin the day. My only oiling problem was the stuck sump which was never built to handle ridiculous G forces. This hopefully is now fixed with a dry sump setup.

Originally Posted by svxfiles

IOur rods are supposed to be fine at normal RPMs, but the stock studs are the weak link.
It ALMOST costs as much to upgrade to ARP studs as it does to get some better rods.
.

You can simply run EJ20 ARP head studs, around $225 on ebay. It's only the central piston that needs to be pinned down nicely. The ones in my EG33 are 6 years old hehe.

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_f...All-Categories

Originally Posted by smc

One of the major problems I can see is for cooling. You may want to go with an electric water pump thats independent of the crank. At the speeds your looking to obtain, stock style of pump will be experiencing cavitation like crazy and will be trying to push more air than water. Effectively stalling the flow of coolant.
That, and the coolant would be moving to quickly through the system to effectively remove heat from the engine block.

Best way to combat this is with a high volume automotive electric water pump. It will happily be pumping away at what ever rpm your engine is running at.

Feel free to correct me if im wrong here.

Could be an idea using an electric pump to feed the mechanical pump. From my own testing, using 2 x inline pumps on my pool I was suprised to see that a little electric pump feeding the big electrical pump would remove all cavitation and increase flow nicely. It actually removed the need to prime the big pump in my case. Would be the same with the car as the flow was about the same.

I've never tested like Tony did with the EG33 pump, but I had no issues revving an EJ2X water pump to 8500+ rpm for years with many different engine combos with a lot of power and I honestly don't see how the EG33 would be in issue when upgraded as per Tony's recommendations.

Originally Posted by oab_au

The 4 cylinders use a 10mm? I think.

Harvey.

That's correct. They started making some 11mm ones for the 4 bangers when they started using dual AVCS - must take a fair bit of oil to drive the solenoids etc.

Originally Posted by RallyBob

Don't forget that Frank Aragona told me and Jack that the stock crank was very reliable until about 9500 rpms. Then they failed repeatedly. So he went the billet route to spin 10,500 reliably.

Interesting... in the days of F1 turbo engines they had the same thing... 25:12 in... crank failyures due to resonance. Wonder if that's the issue here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbB1qwhKaaE

One other thing to note Tony, Andy's 1000 bhp EG33 ripped the stock oil pump to pieces... cannot find the pics but it's smashed.

Also with those Techwork cams they're massive hehe. For the EG33 NA, might be an idea to copy some Porsche type cams and or get Harvey to design them. Those ones above are for a turbo application and with turbo cam selection it's really something that can be done blind folded.. pretty hard to get wrong... the turbo tends to make things work even if they shouldn't. I'd definetely go solid buckets and find the lightest everything else in the valve train. The only worry I'd have is the later STI's (V5 STI+) all went to far bigger bucket diameter than the old ones - I wonder if that engineering change is RPM related?!