Thread: Clutch.
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Old 11-15-2007, 03:38 PM
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Speedklix Speedklix is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: North Shore, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXRide View Post
get your flywheel resurfaced since you're doing your clutch
fixed it.
and also do your rear main seal while you're in there.

in a forester, it doesn't matter too much which route you go (engine/trans)
I would just drop the trans though given the extra clearance.
as long as you remove both half shafts, you can probably handle the trans with a single high lift floorjack with a decent size seat on it to lift with. you should be able to rent a tranny jack too, so check around with loan-a-tool places and even places like autozone.

like i've said in the past on here, you can't go based on "stage" whatever when it comes to clutches. Get REAL tested numbers, not %'s and such.
Also keep in mind that racing clutches wear faster and are harder on you engine/trans. so don't go too much more than you really need or plan to need. Doesn't make too much sense to kill your car and make it harsher to drive for no reason.
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-Mike
ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic
Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165

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