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If it is an AWD find some gravel and stomp on it! The back wheels should spin. No gravel? Stomp on it hard and fast so the power light comes on and see if it goes straight down the road. If the rears wheels are not working the car will torque steer. If you get it on a lift all four wheels should spin. Based on history, some of the rear wheel drives have stopped working before the rest of the tranny started to fail. However, my rear wheel drive has not been working for about 30K miles! Also a slip when shifting from 2 to 3 is another somewhat common indicator of its going to fail!
Some of the cars have a tranny filter in the engine compartment which is a good thing.
Subaru added this to some of the models to help the tranny along. I have a 91 Legacy and it has the same filter. However, filter was original equipment on the car and now it has 147,000 miles on the transmission!
With the car stopped and running, rock the steering wheel from side to side while moving from lock to lock. This will tell you if the rack and tie rods are tight. With the engine off, rock the steering wheel from side to side. It should be feel tight with no play and with no noise. My car had a stripped out bolt holding the rack that clunked when I did this. The tie rods were also bad on my car.
With the engine running and foot on the brake, shift through all the gears and listen for abnormal noise. Banging and clunking. Also shift between D and R quickly after the tranny engages and listen for bangs. This could mean loose drive components, CV etc....... Try it again with just the E-brake on. Make sure the E-brake works!
Stomp on the brakes, on gravel again and the ABS should kick in.
Cracking and popping noise from the windshield and dash is normal when the A/C is on.
A dull thumping noise from the front struts and mounts over small bumps at low speed, about 25 mph and less is normal. Sounds like golf clubs bumping into each other.
A pulse felt through the brake pedal could be warped brake rotors, a common problem.
My car had this problem and all the rotors were turned to fix it.
Check for exhaust leaks and windows for Cracked glass. My car still has the orginal exhaust, 123k miles, 1992 LS-L. Glass is expensive. No after market available.
Check the bottom of the radiator for plugging with road dirt.
The car also has these red and white stickers with the VIN on them. It is easy to see one of these on the door end panel after it is opened. There is also one under the center grill bar on the front bumper. These should all match if the parts have not been replaced. They are also in other places on the body panels that are harder to see or to get to too.
There is also a diagnostic connector in panel by the drivers left foot. Using this to read the cars memory could tell you of other possible problems with engine. O2 sensor common, TPS common. In fact the whole car can be checked out. It has a way for the owner to check every system, tranny, ABS, Airbag and Seat belts.
There do not seem to be any common problems with the ECU, TCU, Stereo, A/C, climate control, engine, fuel ejectors, ignition or rust. Definately no rust problems on this car. It is rust proofed everywhere.
Don't get turned off by these problems. They can all be fixed. Hopefully this info will give you some bargaining room.
The car is fantastic on the highway, very smooth and handles great. A lot of fun to drive, quiet, versatile and great looks.
I get the biggest kick out of watching peoples faces when i tell them it is a 92. People are astonished. They most often think it is newer.
The style will still look great in ten years.
It is a good value at any price. Even if you need a new tranny every 100,000 miles.
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