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You'll have to look around for a place to install a cooler - you're right, a dealer certainly won't do it. If you do buy the car, have that cooler and a filter installed. I've had a couple places tell me that a cooler wouldn't fit where I wanted it (in front of the AC condenser), so I put it there myself. Plenty of room.
As for a five-speed, I don't even know where you'd go to get one installed. I think your best bet, were it to come to that, would be to take the specs from Smallcar's five speed kit to local shops and talk to them about it. You'd need to talk to performance shops - most repair places wouldn't touch a project like that for plenty of reasons.
I don't think it's unreasonable to expect that the tranny will last another 15k. I haven't seen the car, but if it's shifting okay, I would expect it to last a good long while yet.
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