Quote:
Originally Posted by kwren
Trevor, not everyone here has the same expertise as you. 99 out of 100 wouldn't have a test lamp. Half the ones that do, can't find it. A test lamp has to be the most primitive contraption ever made to do electrical testing.
I suggested unplugging one end, which would avoid a chance of feedback. The rest of us are probably in the learning mode... at least the intelligent ones are. These simple recommendations would apply to many tests and there is never any greater way to test a fuse than using an Ohmmeter.
If you personally could get everyone on this form together in a group and lecture them all day, every day, and try to get them to follow your example, you would drive most insane.
Cheers...
Keith  |
Keith,
It is best that members are properly advised. A test lamp drawing current will show up a fault which a high impedance meter may not detect. A test lamp combined with a screwdriver, or even better one with a test spike, cam be purchased at my local $2 shop for exactly that, i.e. N.Z. two dollars. For much automotive testing it is superior to a meter.
You state --- "there is never any greater way to test a fuse than using an Ohmmeter." N.B. An ordinary ohmmeter will not disclose a high resistance fault e.g. caused by slight corrosion, as will a device which draws current. The higher the wattage of the bulb in the lamp, the better. An old faulty double filament headlamp bulb with one filament still intact, makes a no cost, ideal tester. Grab one complete with holder and wires from a wreck.
Once upon a time there was one with expertise posting, by the name of Beav. He would have instructed you exactly as I am doing. Sadly he became fed up with this place and stupid people.
You appear to be of the opinion that those with expertise should refrain from helping others. Your logic is faulty, as is your continual sarcasm.
Rattle your dags.
