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Old 04-12-2005, 09:09 PM
Electrophil's Avatar
Electrophil Electrophil is offline
Which manual is "that" in??
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 3,962
$2000?? There's not that much to the door lock system. 2 actuators, a timer, and a 2 wire hook up to the alarm... Where are those brainiacs getting a high figure of 2k from?

I'm assuming the circuitry is the same between the US and Australia??

If it's unlocking immediately... No delay at all, then it sounds like you have a continuous 12V being supplied to the "unlock" side of the Actuator circuit. It's a 3 wire system.... 12V on one side, it locks... 12V on the other side, it unlocks. If its setting there with a continuous 12V on one side, then please don't let things be for long. It will of course drain the battery over time, and will definitely burn out the actuators. If the 12V fault is on the driver's side, it will take out both of them. (Passenger side too) Unless you are troubleshooting the circuit, You need to pull fuse 13 until it's resolved, or you'll be buying actuators. (Put the fuse back in for troubleshooting)

Kind of suspicious for the battery to go out at the same time...

Try manually pushing down on the lock lever in the driver's door. See if there is more than a normal amount of resistance, and if after pushing it down, see if it pops back up. If it pops back up, then there it is. It has nothing to do with the security system. Take the door trim off, and trace back where the 12V is coming from. Its probably your door lock timer, for that's where the actuator gets the 12V signals from.

If it doesn't pop back up, your security module is getting abnormal feedback and it is bouncing the lock circuit. But I doubt if the security module is fried itself.
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