Here is a quote from Harry Newman "newsvx" on the moving subframe issue:
Quote:
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Originally Posted by newsvx
Not withstanding the previous thought about the "rattling" sound, I have found a solution to a "loose" frontend. I found that the bolts securing the front suspension subframe to the car become loose - not loose-loose, but needed tightening due to the rubber washer being compressed over time. The first time I tightened the bolts, some took as many as two full turns to tighten down. This applies to both the front end as well as the rear end suspension subframes.
A WORD OF CAUTION: Do NOT overtighten. These bolts have a shoulder on them, and if you run the bolt totally down (really compressing the rubber grommet), you will run out of threads on the bolt and can ring off the bolt. This was done on my car with an impact gun that was set too high. The problem: the bolt has a nut as part of the frame of the car. All of that has to be drilled out and a complete (high-strength) nut and bolt replace the old assembly.
BTW, the tightening of these suspension subframes really make a BIG difference in the way the car feels and handles. I also reduced front end noise by tightening the subframe.
The suspension subframes are a separate structure (both front and rear) that bolts to the underside of the car. In the front, the steering sector and anti-roll bar sit in this subframe. On the front, as an example, there are two large bolts just behind the lower "A" arms and two just in front that afix the subframe to the body of the car.
If you have the car on the rack in the air, they are fairly easy to see. You'll need a long breaker bar to get good leverage to turn the bolts - or an air impact tool. Again, be careful just how tight you try to get them. You DON'T want to ring the bolt off! A solution is to remove the bolts and add some washers to back the bolt up from the shoulder and to insure you have threads to work with.
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Last edited by svxcess; 08-08-2006 at 07:32 AM.
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