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MAF diamiter vs Flow is highly non-linear. even worse sensor height in the body is also higly non-linear.
For example, lowering the sensor hieght in a stock diamiter maf-body just a little bit produces a large change in the reading. AKA why you can have "fuel tuning" with aftermarket MAF bodies for the WRX with stock diamiters. Even worse Subaru has gone to highly asemetrical bodies for the LGT and whatnot.
I'm not sure how it does it, but the unichip does its tuning by screwing around with the MAF voltages the ECU sees. So you can space the sensor on a normal body, get more headroom, and then pull down if you need to.
Even better if someone can find a cheap "translator" that has plenty of RPM/load points you can skip the stock MAF setups altogether and just run a Ford aftermarket MAF body and sensor. AKA what many people with those old worthless flapperdoor MAFs do. Course the kit for the BMW's I saw was nearly the same cost as a cheap stand alone so....
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On the FPR, you can just stuff in a nice rising rate FPR (with 1:1 ratio please) into the return fuel line. The stock FPR just makes for a "floor" you can't set the fuel pressure below, but once you go over that, the added regulator does all the control. Done this on a good many cars. Even got a AVO500 to 22psi with good fueling by doing a FPR this way behind my stock FPR on my STi.
For really high HP setups you may want to replace the stock FPR with just an outlet pipe. I've seen a FPRless outlet pipe somewhere, but forgot what it was on. Likely a nissan of somekind. I know my XT6 engine swap the stock FPR was having hell with the fuel pump as it was sized for far more than it was designed to handle. Poor thing was screaming.
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