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Old 04-27-2004, 03:28 PM
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mbtoloczko mbtoloczko is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Richland, WA
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Sounds like you snapped the ribbon cable. If the ribbon cable is broken, neither the horn nor the cruise control will work. There are some pictures in my locker. If it snapped in about the same location that mine did, it should be fixable. If it snapped anywhere in the winding, I don't think it will be fixable. If you think the ribbon cable is broken, the next step is to pull off the steering wheel. You'll need a T-30 *security* torquxs bit and a 17 mm socket to remove the steering wheel. Park the car with the tires pointed straight ahead, and disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before you start the dissasembly. Let the car sit a few minutes to be certain the the airbag capacitor has discharged. The torqux screws are on the side of the steering wheel behind some plastic covers. Once you remove those, the airbag will lift off the steering wheel. Disconnect the electrical connections and put the airbag somewhere outside the car.

Now have a look at the code shown in the little plastic window. If the tires are pointed straight ahead, the code should read "center". The other codes that you might see are "2L", "1L", "1R", and "2R" which mean 2 turns to the left, 1 turn to the left, etc. If you see none of those, then you are more than that out of range. Since you said the steering wheel became hard to turn to the left, I'm guessing you'll see either 1L, 2L, or out of range. (Mine read "2R". You can see it in picture 01 in my locker.)

If the code is anything but "center", then the ribbon cable is very likely busted. There is one more check you can perform to determine if the ribbon cable is broken before removing the assembly. Remove the bottom dash trim panel on the driver's side. Then remove the metal plate under the steering column that is secured by four 10 mm/philips bolts. You'll see several connectors. There will be one black connector with three wires going out. It sits below the plane of the other connectors. This connector has the lead wires for the cruise control and horn. Pull the connector, and then do a continuity test between the connector there and the connector at the steering wheel. The wiring colors are preserved between the two connectors. All three of the wires should have continuity.

If you're satisfied that the ribbon cable is broken, then the wiring assembly as to be removed and either fixed or replaced. Remove the 17 mm nut and washer holding the steering wheel to the steering shaft. Match mark the steering wheel to the steering shaft. Make sure the tires are still pointed straight ahead, and then rock (push/pull not rotate) the steering wheel to get it to come loose. You'll then have to remove the plastic and metal plating surrounding the steering column. Once that's all removed, then the wiring assembly can be removed. There are a few screws holding it in place on the column, and there is one lever that needs to pressed at the black plastic box underneath the steering column.

Once the assembly is removed, the pics in my locker explain most everything else. IIRC, the ribbon cable is wound clockwise. Let me know if you have any other questions.
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Mychailo
:: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ ::
1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold)

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SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads.
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