[Subafreak]

Yeah you need to leave enough tube at the top for the nubs to get sucked into. They may seem like they fit tight without that but they don't fit tight enough, I wouldn't be suprized if they still clunk when going around corners.
You are suppost to measure the strut so that the nubs will get pulled into the strut body just to be about flush with each other. The nubs will not slide right into the strut body by hand they have to be pulled in by the bottom bolt when you tighen it up, they will streatch out the metal of the strut body a little going in to make it really tight. (they are not meant to come back out, the top of the strut unscrews to rebuild the strut). The strut body should be cut so that you can tap the nubs in far enough to catch the strut by about 2 or three threads and then draw it in the rest of the way. Make sure you got enough threads on it so that you won't strip out the strut or the bolt, or then you will really hate life.


As far as the spring perch goes Tom, if you cut off just enough of thr old perch to use as a base for a new perch then your weld won't have to be perfect, the old section of base will be supporting the weight with the factory weld, your weld will just be holding the new perch from sliding around. Thats prettymuch what I did, the new perch isn't welded directly to the strut body, it's welded to the peice of perch I left on the strut body.