[Beav]

My advice, for whatever thirty-three years of experience as a pro-wrench are worth, are to not only clean the throttle body but to also replace the PCV valve - it suffers from clogging also. First word of caution: do not undo anything that looks like an adjustment. The throttle blades have what some may consider to be an idle stop. The idle is controlled by the computer and IAC (idle air controller), not by the throttle stop. The stop is precisely adjusted at the factory to allow full closure without allowing the blades to contact the throttle bores.

The TPS (throttle position sensor) can be cleaned - kinda. It is not made to be disassembled and nobody should try to do so. However a squirt or two of carb cleaner followed by some air blowing or ample drying time can help remove some of the worn carbon inside and make its operation less electrically 'noisy'. To re-adjust it will require a volt-ohmmeter. Do a search here and you'll find several ways to accomplish the task.

The crud that builds up inside the t-body occurs over a period of time. While the crud is building the throttle blades and IAC are being forced into different positions. The computer 'learns' how to make allowances for these new positions. As a result of cleaning the computer will need to relearn the new positions. Sometimes this can take a few days until everything falls back into place.

Cleaning the t-body and MAF and replacing the PCV valve are common maladies to all modern port-injected engines. Some days it seems to be all I that I do. Customers come in with their MIL lamps glowing, I pull the codes - usually P03xx (misfires) and/or P040x (EGR malfunction of some sort) or P017x (O2 sensor malfunctions). A great deal of the time the misfires and O2 problems are caused or are related to crudded t-bodies and MAFs.

BTW - pouring stuff in the gas tank absolutely won't help reduce these deposits. Don't waste your money if this is what you're trying to accomplish.