[mbtoloczko]

Originally posted by svx_commuter
Hey Mychailo that is a very nice thoughtful write up. Lots of detail for a great install. I would like to add my thoughts.

I have used this to put the camber back the way it was. It comes out very close. Use a calipher to measure the distance from the front of the hub to the back of the strut by the camber adjustment bolt. I have a picture somewhere..... Of course the camber would be realigned since the springs are shorter so it is not that critical here.

How did you work the spring compressors? I found I had to drive the claws into the spring coil to get enough length out of the screw thread. Without that "driving in" I wasn't able to move the ends of the spring until the center was overcompressed. I like the Sears compressor a lot but don't own one.
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I didn't find it necessary to jam the claw inbetween the coils at the top and bottom of the spring. I just had to compress the inner coils a large amount. That's probably why it took me so long to compress/decompress the springs. :-)
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I break the top nut loose from the strut shaft before I start to remove the strut. I also tighten it again after it's back in. Depending on how long the nut has been in there it could be tight. The car is a much better vise than trying to hold the strut out of the car. What's your experience with that?
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hehe. Yeah, I'll admit that's what I did. I think its ok to do in the front, but my feeling is that using the strut mount in the rear for leverage could potentially damage the rubber bushing, so I didn't include it in the instructions. I don't want anyone writing back saying they ripped the rubber bushing while trying to loosen the strut-to-strut mount nut using this technique.
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I have used wood to support the disk/ hub assy.
Now I have to read the rest of thread.