If there are no TCU codes, you should get a steadily flashing power light. If it just stays on, it's not pulling the codes. No codes should flash about once a second, and do it indefinitely.
Quote:
Originally posted by SVXRide
UberRoo,
How would I "cut the wire"? I thought the wire for Solenoid C was actually inside the transfer case. Would flushing the trans possibly "unstick" the solenoid?
-Bill
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Flushing the transmission
might un-stick the solenoid. Cutting the wire (which Chiketkd nicely reposted here) is a few steps away. (The wire
is inside the transfer case...at least some of it, but it comes out, runs along the top of the transmission, under the throttle body, towards the brake booster, through the firewall, down towards the hood release lever, and into the TCU.)
Until you get the TCU to give up the codes, or at least the all-clear steady flashing power light, forget anything else. There's a good chance this is an electrical problem. I would speculate that even a jammed solenoid might still make noise, though it may be very quiet. From the sound of things, if you're not getting a 'no codes' code, it's probably electrical.
Pulling the speed sensor is quite easy, so go ahead and do that if you get the chance. Just don't break your back worrying about anything else until you're sure you got the codes. If you just can't get the stupid thing to give up it's secrets, you can still do a continuity test. This is done by unplugging the connector (the red one in the picture in Chiketkd's last post) and measuring between the green wire with a red stripe and ground. It should be about 13 to 15 ohms.
Does anyone know of any quirks for why pulling codes may be tricky? The very first two times I did it, I got a solid light too. On the third try, it worked, and has ever since. (I swear I did exactly the same thing all three times!) I've pulled the ECU codes successfully and without any trouble, but have been unable to reset them. Anybody know of any strange bugs when doing these things?