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Originally Posted by TE1221
I pretty much re-did the whole brake system: remanufactured calipers, rotors, lines and pads all the way around.
Lugs are torqued to 90 ft lbs.
Fluid was just bled again.
It would stink to have to replace the rotors... they still look relatively new!
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Ah, that's a highish torque isn't it? Specs say 72-87. I know it's not much extra though....
I know it's been said before, but it really is important to torque those nuts up properly - sounds like you're already doing that though. I go to 75, and even that is pretty hard when undoing them with a lug nut cross-bar.
Do the rotors have pad imprints on them? If so you might be out of luck. It is possible to straighten the rotors out and get rid of the wobble - I've done it myself, just by heating them up gradually to HOT and then cooling down gradually. Do what Trevor said and check the rotor/hub mating surface, you may find a bit of corrosion or something.
One thing definitely worth trying (already mentioned I think) is with new pads:
Check all the nut torques.
Make sure the calipers are sliding properly on the pins.
Then go driving - Start doing braking stops from about 60 mph to about 10mph (Don't stop completely). Increase the severity slowly until you are just above the abs level. Things should be a little bit smelly and HOT about now. Then keep driving doing some gentle stops so that everything cools down slowly. When you've cooled everything down you can stop completely. You'll know by then if it has worked or not anyway. Re torque all the nuts.
Matt