Quote:
svxfiles wrote on 11-16-2004 08:13 AM:
4.11/4.44 transmission swap
While it’s on the ground, disconnect the battery, and remove the starter from the car, if you leave it under the hood it will find a way to jam against the bellhousing.
Remove the alternator and belt. This allows you to access the four 14mm torque converter bolts. I used a two foot long 3/8” extension with the socket taped to the extension, so that it would not pull off.
Remove the plastic airbox that attaches to the throttle body. This allows access to the two round, and two square electrical plugs, that must be disconnected.
Disconnect the three wire connector to the svx speed sensor, located on the passenger side of the transmission, behind the bellhousing.
Remove the upper transmission mount, it’s the dog bone shaped mount that goes from the firewall to the top of the bellhousing.
Jack up the svx to where you can work on it safely, Use a garage lift if possible.
Drain the transmission fluid from the transmission pan. You will get more than six quarts if you let it drain for hours
Drain the rear end.
Unplug the oxygen sensors, by pulling lightly on the wires, and with a standard blade screwdriver prying out on the locking clip. They should pop out easily.
Remove the complete exhaust system, from the muffler up to the factory cast headers. Don’t forget the ground wire at the right tailpipe.
Remove the complete driveshaft, including the carrier bearing.
There four bolts,(vertical) and two nuts(horizontal) holding the rear end in..
You can slide the rear end away from the axles, one at a time. Watch for very thin wire C clips on the axles. With the first axle, you might need to pry lightly on the axle flange to get it started. On the second one, you can use the rear end like a slide hammer to remove the rear from the axle.
Drive the roll-pins out of the axles,(near the front differential) and remove the bolts that hold the lower ball joints to the steering knuckle. Tap downward on the lower control arm, and pull out on the bottom of the front tires, (one at a time) this will pull the axles off of the differential stub shafts. Once off the stub shafts, you can let them hang out of the way.
Remove the one inch thick tubular bar that connects the left and right frame rails, located behind the front differential, and in front of the transmission pan.
Remove the six bolts, and one nut that attach the rear transmission mount.
Disconnect the transmission cable from the linkage on the passenger side of the transmission. NOTE, if the bushing breaks, it’s ok to replace the bushing with a short piece of 5/16” fuel line.
Disconnect the transmission cooler lines on the drivers’ side of the transmission. Good luck with this.
Support the transmission with an appropriate jack. A 4EAT tranny weighs about 250 pounds, and can cut off a finger faster than you can say,”woops”.
You can now remove the two bolts, and two nuts that bolt the transmission to the engine, thru the bellhousing.
You might have to jack up the front of the engine, to support it, and to allow clearance for the transmission to be removed.
Shake the transmission tailshaft while pulling it toward the rear of the car.
If you need to pry against the bellhousing, be careful not to dent or crush the power steering lines. If you have everything disconnected, the transmission should come out. BE CAREFUL.
NOTE, if you are just upgrading as a mod, use your svx torque converter. If your transmission is bad, then your svx torque converter is probably contaminated, and you can use an 96-98 Legacy Outback torque converter. They have been used successfully in the past. DO NOT USE an Impreza torque converter! It is probably far to small for svx HP levels.
Before you install the 4.44/4.11 transmission, remove the rear mount and replace it with the svx mount.
Install the svx speed sensor.
Remove any gear shift bracket that does not match up to the svx gear shift set up.
VERY IMPORTANT, When you install the torque converter that you are going to use, keep turning the torque converter until it fully seats. When it is fully seated, the face of the mounting flanges are within 3/8” of an inch of the front of the bellhousing. The face of the mounting flanges, are the flat surface that touches the flywheel. So, if the engine side of the flanges are 3/8” above the bellhousing, than the back/transmission side is recessed into the bellhousing!
The installation is the reverse of the removal.
If you get a limited slip rear differential that has both the correct ratio, and five bolts on each side holding the side plates on, go ahead and install it.
If you get an “open” rear differential, with no limited slip, then you have to convert your new open differential to a limited slip for two reasons. The first is so that your svx axles fit, and the second is so that your power doesn’t go up in wheel spin.
What I did, was to use the replacement rear end housing, so that I would not have to mess with the pinion gear, or it’s preload. Use the ring gear from the new rear end, but use the side plates, and carrier from the svx. You will have to do a little grinding on the left side of the housing opening, where the two humps are, so that the ring gear from the new rear end, and now mounted on the svx carrier will clear. I used the shims from the svx housing and have not yet had a problem. Just feel for clearance, and make sure there is a little play in the ring to pinion. You do not want any roughness or any binding. Too loose is much better than too tight.
