Quote:
Originally Posted by kjoyes
OK so I could take duct work tin. paint it black so it doesn't look like I rednecked it. Drill two holes for the megafuse holder placing it on the tin and marking it with a nail so i know where to drill the holes put rivets in the tin, not in the fuse box. so I don't drill in to my fuse box nice!!! i didn't want to drill into my factory fuse box anyway I like to keep things as a original as i can!!!!! Make the bracket first and test fit to make sure it fits correctly. Put the fusebox cover on. Mark and drill the location for the holes.Then you can paint it ith some flat black paint and rivet tke fuse holder to it,
Do you bend it so it bottoms out inside the fuse box for stability, or do you just bend enough so it just catches? Doesn't have to bottom out completely. Make it out of heavy cardboard and trim to get the correct fit
Have you had any problems with it rattling? or staying in place? Does not rattle. The weight of the megafuse and the cables, plus the tight bend in the metal bracket where it slips over the fuse box keeps it quiet.It is held in place by the fusebox cover
How long does this mod take from start to finish? Completely variable. For everything, took a few hours. Take your time and don't rush.
I plan on cutting the length of the cables i need first, then doing the crimping outside of the engine bay...
I crimp everything. Do not solder. Test fit all the wires for length, including the terminals. If you don't have a hydraulic crimper, take your cables to a local battery shop and have them crimp the connectors on for you. Do not try to use pliers or a hammer.
The factory negative ground cable is no longer needed? and have to strip the negative battery connector off with out damaging the copper what works best for doing that? Not sure of the question. You can leave the negative connection alone and add the two new ground wires to it
Why did you mount the new 4 gauge ground cable to the horn bracket and not where you remove the factory ground cable? It is a heavier mounting point, with a bigger bolt for the ground cable. Makes a better ground
Thanks again for all your knowledge that you bring to this forum...
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Just read the directions carefully and do things in order and you will be fine. Again, read the alternator wiring upgrade procedure
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Subaru Ambassador
1996 Polo Green LSi #216
..138,100 miles.
..SOLD
JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan
In-Service Date: January 2, 1997
"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
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HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.
R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb.
COW March 4, 2016
2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback
2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.
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