Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Mummert
Howdy, Trevor - As I've personally done nothing, I've left it to my "trusty" local mechanic, & he's found nothing. However, I'll ask about the "fraction" next time I drop by his shop. Thanks for responding old kiwi fart.  |
Ron You have exactly disclosed your problem. Make sure your mechanic stops farting and reads the attached. I have been having problems and the attachment does not appear be working so read below:=
Battery Current Leakage Testing.
Sometimes a car battery can become discharged for no apparent reason, due to a concealed constant leakage of current. Such a fault is best located using the following procedure.
Disconnect the battery ground and connect a multi-meter switched to the maximum current (amps) range, with the meter negative to battery negative and meter positive to ground. Make reliable connections, so that a faulty contact does not confuse the issue. Switch on an interior or side lights and confirm that the meter is reading current. At this point and onwards, do not operate the starter, as the resulting massive current drain could damage the meter.
If there is no reading with all loads turned off, step down progressively through the current ranges on the meter, so as to finally detect even a very small leakage current registering in milliamps. It must be accepted that modern vehicles often include electronic items permanently connected to the battery, these constantly draw a small residual current in milliamps and a clock is a common item in this respect. It would be unusual for this to exceed 100 milliamps.
In the event that you measure an abnormal current drain, remove distribution fuses one at a time. At any point where the current drain ceases, you have located the faulty circuit and thus narrowed your search and you can proceed accordingly.
If the procedure isolating circuits proves unsuccessful, disconnect the alternator wiring and again check the reading. There could be an internal diode with a reverse leak, or some other problem involving the alternator or its wiring.
If you suspect an intermittent current leak, tap, push and move components while simultaneously watching the meter.
Negative results after these tests will then leave only the main positive battery cable, starter cable, or the mechanical aspects of the fuse box as being possible leakage paths.
Be aware that sometimes there can be an internal fault path between plates within a battery. Alternatively, dirt and moisture across the top of a battery can provide a fault path, sufficient to discharge the battery over an extended period. Make sure all is clean.
When trouble shooting, it is essential not to proceed with more than one test or experiment at a time, otherwise it is easy to lose the plot. Be methodical and careful, even to the extent of noting down each test/experiment as it becomes proven. It is so very easy to forget what you have and have not done, particularly if you become interrupted.
TRS